What I have been working on

[KBScobravert]

So with changing from the fun to drive on the street T56 to a slightly less fun to drive on the street but a better track transmission, the 4R70W with transbrake, I am going to be making some suspension changes too.

That said, I will be pulling the MM torque arm, MM panhard bar, MM lower control arms (w/spring perch), the Bilsteins (front and rear) with MM coil over kits and springs. In their place I am putting in a suspension more suitable for launching the car from a dead stop. I am still wanting it to be decent to drive around town so I am going with all poly bushing stuff vs hard heim joints.

Take a look and tell me what I am missing?
Strange 10-way adjustable rear coil over shocks (S5248)
Team Z lower adjustable shock mounts (5811-M40)
Strange 10-way adjustable front struts with coil over conversion kits (S6005LM & S6001)
Team Z Street Beast adjustable upper control arms (poly bushing)
Team Z Street Beast adjustable lower control arms (poly bushing)
Team Z ARB (poly bushing)
Wild Rides upper and lower battle box kits.

The transmission still needs
Strange 3" chromoly drive shaft
Strange pinion flange for 1350 u-joints with their caps
Derale 15870 transmission cooler with fan
-8an line and fittings

I am probably going to go back to a 4" single exhaust. Not sure how far back I am going to try and get it though. I need the space on the driver's side muffler spot to put the trans cooler.

Hopefully my next trip home in April I can get the new trans mounted up. I am not going to still be ordering parts so it won't be on the road then. So while it is still down I want to pull the rear, clean it up, weld on the tabs for the ARB, get the tubes welded and then put some paint on it. I won't be putting it back in until the summer when I can afford the rest of the suspension parts.

There will be, another, tire and wheel change down the road too. I will keep these BBS and nitto tires but I am going to need something better that hooks for the track...if I can ever get it there.

[KBScobravert]

Got a picture, for proof of life if you will. Mike is smoothing the shit out of the case getting ready to lay some paint on it.


test

[KBScobravert]

Fuck you. We're not going to Costco.

Hahaha. I'll let you in if you show up late.

[Matt]

Fuck you. We're not going to Costco.

[KBScobravert]

add a vband to the dp so you can take it off in sections

[Matt]

add a vband to the dp so you can take it off in sections

[NoClassic]

I would be concerned about removing much more material from around the starter mounting bosses. Certainly would not cut a window. There is a good bit of force on that area when the starter is in use. Just make another or modify the downpipe.

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

Just do front exit DP...��

[KBScobravert]

The twin disc was slipping at 750?

yes

[broke again]

The twin disc was slipping at 750?

[KBScobravert]

I tossed the empty trans in to see how it will fit with the DP. That was fun.


I think I want to put a window in the bell housing so the DP will clear better.


I can't get the DP in or out with the trans bolted up unless I cut more of the flange into the area where I want to window the starter hump

[Baron Von Crowder]

i put one in my 69 without cutting anything.

[shumpertdavid]

When I swapped the 4r70 into my sn-95, I cut any ear that stuck off the case that wasn't needed for mounting or operation. It made clearance much nicer and install easier with the mods my car has.

[KBScobravert]

When you get to installing your actual unit, remove the ear at 3°click and any other not needed

The one just above the starter I assume. That's the first one I'm taking off.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[shumpertdavid]

When you get to installing your actual unit, remove the ear at 3°click and any other not needed