cooling options? what would you do

[Txstang1]

Go go get a radiator from Dallas mustang. I bought a 2 row " with two 1 1/4 in rows" from DM for like 319 plus tax. Its a big bad mofo, you're not gonna find anything comparable for cheaper, I already looked.

[Baba Ganoush]

190-220 is a good operating range.

Correct. I'd never recomend a 160* thermostat, makes the car run like shit otherwise. Upgrade your radiator and buy a quality electric fan with a temp relay. No switches for the fan, that's mickey mouse shit.

[fbodyjohnny]

I always thought that just raising the pressure did not really give you more fuel. If you put your finger over the end of a water hose, you get more pressure, but you pass less water. I run a 190 STOCK Ford stat in a 331 stroker with Trickflow heads and a GT 40 upper and lower intake. I run 30 pound FMS injectors. I have a stock fan, 3 row brass radiator, and I also run a 7 pound cap. I drove 10o miles yesterday with the AC on full cold. The temp stayed at 195 even when idling in towns. On the road at 70 MPH with 3:73's it stayed at 195. Could you have alittle crack or gasket leak tht is opening up at higher temps ? Do you lose any water ?

yea im clueless at this point man. ive tried raisin it and lowering it to even it out to the standard i want and need for driving in this hot weather, and cruising. the only way i can get it to hold 40 ish after it gets hot is make it to where it idles at 51-52. then when it warms up, it floats around 41-42, and at WOT it stays right at 40. so i guess it will work for now, until i get a boost reference regulator and ditch my POS FMU and regulator all together. i have a question for you, the spark plugs i went to put in yesterday arent the right ones i need and i figured out why,, because i have trick flow heads, i totally forgot about that.. what i pulled out is Autolite 3924 plugs, and what i had new which was wrong is NGK UR45. what kind of NGK plug would cross reference to the autolite 3924 plug? and nope, not leakin anything anywhere or consuming coolant.

[fbodyjohnny]

still have your radiator deflector (underneath car)?

i guess not because i dont know what it looks like lol and its pretty open under there, just the front support shit and thats it lol, also no sway bars front or rear and no quads, but thats stuff i know about hehe

[fbodyjohnny]

Go go get a radiator from Dallas mustang. I bought a 2 row " with two 1 1/4 in rows" from DM for like 319 plus tax. Its a big bad mofo, you're not gonna find anything comparable for cheaper, I already looked.

right, im stationed in ft. campbell kentucky though. i want something similar to what you mention but then again i also want it in a package deal, instead of gettin it all part by part but i suppose all i would have to do is make sure i get the following: new radiator, twin electric fans, adjustable control unit with tap-in style sensor, and i picked out a nice ford racing high flow water pump :O hehe. all that sound right?

[fbodyjohnny]

Correct. I'd never recomend a 160* thermostat, makes the car run like shit otherwise. Upgrade your radiator and buy a quality electric fan with a temp relay. No switches for the fan, that's mickey mouse shit.

lol well when i changed the thermostat out last night after cussin at the water pump for bein in the way lol i discovered that the cunt had a 160* thermostat in it and it was froze up like a motha fucka. also found out that my fan clutch is SHOT. so thats probly 2 good,,, no,, 3 reasons why it was running so hot. with that 160 in there it was staying open since obviously it gets way over 160 without even drivin for 2 minutes, so the coolant wasnt gettin a chance to get "cooled off" by the radiator/incoming air and fan air, it was just constantly circulating scorching hot bullshit around and around not coolin shit down. makes me wanna slap a ho lol

[Captain Crawfish]

Id upgrade the radiator and do the twin fan setup with a manual high speed switch

[fbodyjohnny]

i want to do that with a switch AND an automatic adjustable relay box

[payne5757]

nooo... everybody keeps tellin me that but ok, here's the scoop on it all... i drive my car EVERY day all day long jus because.... it runs PERFECT,,, drives like a dream when its below 185 but after that,,, i can tell that it starts bogging down and it starts runnin like SHIT,,, so how is it that running 205-210 is not bad??? i have many witnesses, its a GREAT car to drive when its warming up but it gets hot and then its no fun at all to drive

This is exactly what happens to my car and its also HCI w/ a blower. I plan to get mine retuned cuz I had it tuned in Philadelphia on an ideal 70something degree day and have since moved back to the crazy heat of Texas summers.

[Txstang1]

right, im stationed in ft. campbell kentucky though. i want something similar to what you mention but then again i also want it in a package deal, instead of gettin it all part by part but i suppose all i would have to do is make sure i get the following: new radiator, twin electric fans, adjustable control unit with tap-in style sensor, and i picked out a nice ford racing high flow water pump :O hehe. all that sound right?

Most of Dallas Mustang's business is shipping parts out.

Fuck a package deal, you're gonna pay more and the shit isn't going to work as good. And why do you seem to be hung up on twin fans?

You need to buy the radiator I mentioned, find you a 1998 lincoln mark viii electric fan, 70 amp relay and the thermostat switch of your choice = problem solved.

I have the exact setup on my fox with a stroked windsor setup and can sit in traffic , 100 degrees out, with the AC on and it nevers gets hot.

[FastFox]

Plugs

yea im clueless at this point man. ive tried raisin it and lowering it to even it out to the standard i want and need for driving in this hot weather, and cruising. the only way i can get it to hold 40 ish after it gets hot is make it to where it idles at 51-52. then when it warms up, it floats around 41-42, and at WOT it stays right at 40. so i guess it will work for now, until i get a boost reference regulator and ditch my POS FMU and regulator all together. i have a question for you, the spark plugs i went to put in yesterday arent the right ones i need and i figured out why,, because i have trick flow heads, i totally forgot about that.. what i pulled out is Autolite 3924 plugs, and what i had new which was wrong is NGK UR45. what kind of NGK plug would cross reference to the autolite 3924 plug? and nope, not leakin anything anywhere or consuming coolant.

I'm not sure what plug is in mine. I know they are Motorcraft. I don't have a crossover for the other brand plugs.

[fbodyjohnny]

Most of Dallas Mustang's business is shipping parts out.

Fuck a package deal, you're gonna pay more and the shit isn't going to work as good. And why do you seem to be hung up on twin fans?

You need to buy the radiator I mentioned, find you a 1998 lincoln mark viii electric fan, 70 amp relay and the thermostat switch of your choice = problem solved.

I have the exact setup on my fox with a stroked windsor setup and can sit in traffic , 100 degrees out, with the AC on and it nevers gets hot.

thanks, 'll get right on that.. what kinda temps do you see with that setup?

[Txstang1]

thanks, 'll get right on that.. what kinda temps do you see with that setup?

around 190 without the ac and about 205 with it on. This is in 95-100 temps, in the spring it ran at 165-170.

[BlueCoupeRedVert]

I replaced my radiator cap as recommended in an earlier post from this thread. Solved my problem. Water kept disappearing wtf? Now it works great and runs cool. lol

[fbodyjohnny]

around 190 without the ac and about 205 with it on. This is in 95-100 temps, in the spring it ran at 165-170.

hm, see now i can run a constant 180 all day long, and my fan clutch is bad so idk if i even need to worry about it anymore. it only gets up to 190 ish when it sits with no in-coming air. temps here have been no more than 90