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  • Nitrous Converter Question

    Going to be pulling the converter out of my coupe and having it restalled. Turns out that it is very inefficient up top (loosing about 20%) and flashes very high (around 5k rpm). I get one free "re-stall" so I want to get it right.

    The plan is to add a 150 shot to the car. How much will a converter like this hurt my n/a numbers? I assume that the converter will have to be a whole lot tighter in order to handle the instantaneous power that comes with nitrous. I assume the tighter converter will make for better street cruising manners, correct?

    Anything else I should consider before I rip this converter out and get it cut open?

  • #2
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    Going to be pulling the converter out of my coupe and having it restalled. Turns out that it is very inefficient up top (loosing about 20%) and flashes very high (around 5k rpm). I get one free "re-stall" so I want to get it right.

    The plan is to add a 150 shot to the car. How much will a converter like this hurt my n/a numbers? I assume that the converter will have to be a whole lot tighter in order to handle the instantaneous power that comes with nitrous. I assume the tighter converter will make for better street cruising manners, correct?

    Anything else I should consider before I rip this converter out and get it cut open?
    I would think for your street strip combo I would go with a 3600-3800 with a flash speed of 4200 on the bottle.
    True Street MotorSports
    901 N McDonald St Suite 100
    McKinney TX 75069

    Shop 972.542.9886
    Fax 972. 542.9879


    Nitrous Refills $4lb


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    • #3
      Originally posted by TrueStreetMotorSports.com View Post
      I would think for your street strip combo I would go with a 3600-3800 with a flash speed of 4200 on the bottle.
      Appreciate it. So a 3600 will flash around 4200 one a 150 shot?

      Comment


      • #4
        depends on how much your motor makes without the n2o. 150 is barely noticeable on a 700hp motor and a kick in the ass on a 250hp motor. I wouldn't worry about the n2o because that's not very much on a fast car.

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        • #5
          how much does it drop on the shift?
          Ring and pinion specialist

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
            Appreciate it. So a 3600 will flash around 4200 one a 150 shot?
            you would want Mike Trick Shift to build you a custom convert. Thats going to be the best/only way to go IMO
            True Street MotorSports
            901 N McDonald St Suite 100
            McKinney TX 75069

            Shop 972.542.9886
            Fax 972. 542.9879


            Nitrous Refills $4lb


            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by TrueStreetMotorSports.com View Post
              you would want Mike Trick Shift to build you a custom convert. Thats going to be the best/only way to go IMO
              I think he built the one that's in his car

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              • #8
                just ask mike im sure he knows what you need.

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                • #9
                  3500-3800 stall should do you good
                  03 Dark Shadow Grey Mach1
                  "SMOKEY"

                  "SLOW STREET CAR"

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                  • #10
                    Ya, this is one of Mikes converters

                    Drops just over 1k rpm's between 1-2 (6900-5600) and 2-3 (6900-5600) with current converter

                    Foot brakes between 2800-3200rpm

                    Flashes right at 5100rpm

                    Through the traps at 97mph @ just over 5600rpm in 3rd (per speed calculator @ 100% efficiency it'd be 4500rpm @ 100mph in 3rd)

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                    • #11
                      There's a fine line between too tight and not tight enough. Some cars suffer a LOT more with a 'nitrous' converter as opposed to a 'n/a' converter.

                      There's a huge torque spike (duh) that hits with the nitrous and will make a converter FLASH a lot higher.

                      Sounds like your converter is a little loose, but not THAT bad - if it has long enough legs to make a quarter mile, then what you have is pretty good. 1000RPM on the shift is not bad at all. (speaking of N/A only of course). I suspect your new converter will KILL this thing though. I'd say that optimum is somewhere near the 4,000RPM range judging on what I've already seen and what you say it's flashing now.

                      I'll put it in perspective - my 302 with the MPT70 turbo ran 6.20's. I sold all that shit and put my dart block 331 in the car with the same converter, minus the turbo. This thing is SO slow, I doubt it would run in the 8's in the 1/8 - now, it would probably run 95mph...but it has NOTHING down low. Extreme opposite, but you get the idea.

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                      • #12


                        Not what I was hoping to hear. I knew the tighter converter would hurt the n/a times a bit, but I hoped I could find some type of compromise.

                        Currently I think the converter is so loose that it doesn't really even want to burn out. I can be in high gear at 4800rpm and have a rear wheel speed of 35mph! I think the lack of a good burnout is part of the reason I can't 60' for crap.

                        Mike has offered to restall it for free so I want to take the opportunity to get it setup for my future plan, which is nitrous.

                        Originally posted by turbostang View Post
                        There's a fine line between too tight and not tight enough. Some cars suffer a LOT more with a 'nitrous' converter as opposed to a 'n/a' converter.

                        There's a huge torque spike (duh) that hits with the nitrous and will make a converter FLASH a lot higher.

                        Sounds like your converter is a little loose, but not THAT bad - if it has long enough legs to make a quarter mile, then what you have is pretty good. 1000RPM on the shift is not bad at all. (speaking of N/A only of course). I suspect your new converter will KILL this thing though. I'd say that optimum is somewhere near the 4,000RPM range judging on what I've already seen and what you say it's flashing now.

                        I'll put it in perspective - my 302 with the MPT70 turbo ran 6.20's. I sold all that shit and put my dart block 331 in the car with the same converter, minus the turbo. This thing is SO slow, I doubt it would run in the 8's in the 1/8 - now, it would probably run 95mph...but it has NOTHING down low. Extreme opposite, but you get the idea.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dville_gt View Post


                          Not what I was hoping to hear. I knew the tighter converter would hurt the n/a times a bit, but I hoped I could find some type of compromise.

                          Currently I think the converter is so loose that it doesn't really even want to burn out. I can be in high gear at 4800rpm and have a rear wheel speed of 35mph! I think the lack of a good burnout is part of the reason I can't 60' for crap.

                          Mike has offered to restall it for free so I want to take the opportunity to get it setup for my future plan, which is nitrous.
                          The caveat to the converter bieng good for motor and too loose for nitrous is that it's HARD as hell on the trans, more power = more slip = a LOT more heat.

                          I remembered you saying that it's not doing a good burnout, but I promise you that your back brakes are the culprit there. I watched it Saturday night and as soon as you let off the brakes it went up in smoke instantly. Get a line lock on it, and that problem will go away.

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                          • #14
                            James you have to figure out how you are going to run the car and set it up for that. If it's going to be an N/A car set it up for that. Nitrous get a Nitrous converter. You can't really have both. Your car will run like a dog with a Nitrous converter N/A. So if you're going to run N20 run only that and not N/A. or just put a turbo on it.
                            03 Dark Shadow Grey Mach1
                            "SMOKEY"

                            "SLOW STREET CAR"

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Dan03mach View Post
                              James you have to figure out how you are going to run the car and set it up for that. If it's going to be an N/A car set it up for that. Nitrous get a Nitrous converter. You can't really have both. Your car will run like a dog with a Nitrous converter N/A. So if you're going to run N20 run only that and not N/A. or just put a turbo on it.
                              He speaks the truth.

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