Best modular shop in DFW area?

[jnobles06]

I do run WOT for 15-20 minute sessions. I will also say that I have a good friend who had his 2011 5.0 GT switched/tuned to run on e85 and only saw about 10-15hp gains. This was with a before/after dyno. The car was for road racing app. He switched it back to run in 91 octane.

that is about right for e85 on a n/a stock compression motor. If blown or hi compression you can gain anywhere from
40-100 hp from water methanol or e85

[jnobles06]

Then you obviously have NO CLUE about open track driving or HPDE's. You are BEATING THE SHIT out of the car for 20 to 30 minutes at a time on a road course. I've met the OP several times, I know he ain't easy on the car and wants reliability, hence EVERY ONE OF MY SUGGESTIONS. FURTHER keep in mind he is in Oklahoma where they can't get 93 Octane fuel...only 91. Boost is NOT required and would not be a long term solution for his track duty car....even though it's still a weekend or DD.

as for the $15k...that's bullshit. He's already got the MM stuff so scratch that off the list. stroker shortblocks are what, $3k these days. Figure in ported heads and cams at another $2500 or so. ALL of which can be bought smartly on the used market for even less.

Trans/flywheel....get a quick time bell housing to put an Astro A-5 behind it. CHEAPER than a TKO600 or even 3550. He might even have the Fidanza flywheel already but it's not necessary.

Heck, I might even suggest just a solid refresh of the shortblock, put cams in the stock heads after a valve job and some cleaning, throw an aggressive tune in the car and beat the snot out of it. It won't be 400rwhp, but it will be about 350'ish and that's more than the 280-290 he's putting down now. Throw some 4.10's in the car BOOYA! Power coming up out of the Bitch at Hallett! Save the money on a built shortblock and put an eaton diff in the rear and hang the tail any time you want!

with the power/ engine you are talking about, the suspension, and the transmission and not to mention the rear end....... yes that is about 15k

and did you just say booya? jesus.

I'm glad you met the op, but he never stated anywhere in here that he intends to drive the car that hard. so how the fuck am I supposed to know that? I only know what info is given.

I am in the middle if a modular build and I bought my heads, cams, and crank used and I'm still in the motor alone for over $3.5k with h/c/I and forged internals. then for a built trans clutch and fly is going to be 1.5k, and i did have all of, not most of the mm suspension and it was close to 8k worth. not to mention the odd and ends like gaskets, machine work, and fluids.

op- that's what I get for helping a newb. you might want to include your intentions for the car next time.

[aggie97]

Yeh I am thinking 350-375rwhp would be good and throw 4.10s with a 6-speed in there and coming out of turn 2 and 9 at Hallett would be much much better. Right now I have 3.73s mated with a Detroit Truetrac diff, which is good with a 5-speed. You've pretty much convinced me to steer away from a blown application. What about my LTs? With new heads I would have to replace those which would suck adding additional cost, and I would need a new light weight flywheel as I am 61k miles on the stocker.

As long as the LT's aren't beaten up or crushed...should be fine to re-use. Mine are all beat to hell from an off I had at Miller in 09 (it was ugly) and I may replace them for my new setup as it comes together.

If you can get the car lighter and not sacrifice your street driven fun, a 4V spinning some RPM making 350-375rwhp with 4.10's will surprise the shit out of you! 6 speed swap is great if you can find a deal like I did, but the T56 is heavy. I built a CMC2 car with a quicktime bell housing and he uses T-5's with it. He's broken two of them and needs to build and A-5, but the split bell and lighter 5 speeds with a better .8X 5th gear is WAY better than the T45. My T56 has been rock solid and I ended up getting it in the car for around $800....which is not the norm.

[SKMCOBRA]

Then you obviously have NO CLUE about open track driving or HPDE's. You are BEATING THE SHIT out of the car for 20 to 30 minutes at a time on a road course. I've met the OP several times, I know he ain't easy on the car and wants reliability, hence EVERY ONE OF MY SUGGESTIONS. FURTHER keep in mind he is in Oklahoma where they can't get 93 Octane fuel...only 91. Boost is NOT required and would not be a long term solution for his track duty car....even though it's still a weekend or DD.

as for the $15k...that's bullshit. He's already got the MM stuff so scratch that off the list. stroker shortblocks are what, $3k these days. Figure in ported heads and cams at another $2500 or so. ALL of which can be bought smartly on the used market for even less.

Trans/flywheel....get a quick time bell housing to put an Astro A-5 behind it. CHEAPER than a TKO600 or even 3550. He might even have the Fidanza flywheel already but it's not necessary.

Heck, I might even suggest just a solid refresh of the shortblock, put cams in the stock heads after a valve job and some cleaning, throw an aggressive tune in the car and beat the snot out of it. It won't be 400rwhp, but it will be about 350'ish and that's more than the 280-290 he's putting down now. Throw some 4.10's in the car BOOYA! Power coming up out of the Bitch at Hallett! Save the money on a built shortblock and put an eaton diff in the rear and hang the tail any time you want!

Yeh I am thinking 350-375rwhp would be good and throw 4.10s with a 6-speed in there and coming out of turn 2 and 9 at Hallett would be much much better. Right now I have 3.73s mated with a Detroit Truetrac diff, which is good with a 5-speed. You've pretty much convinced me to steer away from a blown application. What about my LTs? With new heads I would have to replace those which would suck adding additional cost, and I would need a new light weight flywheel as I am 61k miles on the stocker.

[SKMCOBRA]

they make trunk mount kits and you can make the res as large as you want. i want to know who said anything about this guy racing full throttle for 30min? plus one of the main benefits of water/ meth and e85 is cooler combustion chamber temps.


and all the parts you listed are going to run about 15k. i had every MM suspension part on my old 2k gt and it was about 8-9k worth. not to mention 2k for a tranny/ clutch, and 5k for the built motor.

I do run WOT for 15-20 minute sessions. I will also say that I have a good friend who had his 2011 5.0 GT switched/tuned to run on e85 and only saw about 10-15hp gains. This was with a before/after dyno. The car was for road racing app. He switched it back to run in 91 octane.

[Emwun Garand]

true street motorsports
hpp racing
gear heads

[Dan03mach]

e85 is inconsistent as fuck. ya, let me take this fuel that blends with water out of a tank that's underground............

pump gas is bad enough, jeez

How often do you test the fuel? It shouldn't be inconsistent. Now the blends are different for summer and winter. Everytime I tested it, it has been right on. The last test showed 88% Ethanol...

[aggie97]

i want to know who said anything about this guy racing full throttle for 30min? plus one of the main benefits of water/ meth and e85 is cooler combustion chamber temps.

Then you obviously have NO CLUE about open track driving or HPDE's. You are BEATING THE SHIT out of the car for 20 to 30 minutes at a time on a road course. I've met the OP several times, I know he ain't easy on the car and wants reliability, hence EVERY ONE OF MY SUGGESTIONS. FURTHER keep in mind he is in Oklahoma where they can't get 93 Octane fuel...only 91. Boost is NOT required and would not be a long term solution for his track duty car....even though it's still a weekend or DD.

as for the $15k...that's bullshit. He's already got the MM stuff so scratch that off the list. stroker shortblocks are what, $3k these days. Figure in ported heads and cams at another $2500 or so. ALL of which can be bought smartly on the used market for even less.

Trans/flywheel....get a quick time bell housing to put an Astro A-5 behind it. CHEAPER than a TKO600 or even 3550. He might even have the Fidanza flywheel already but it's not necessary.

Heck, I might even suggest just a solid refresh of the shortblock, put cams in the stock heads after a valve job and some cleaning, throw an aggressive tune in the car and beat the snot out of it. It won't be 400rwhp, but it will be about 350'ish and that's more than the 280-290 he's putting down now. Throw some 4.10's in the car BOOYA! Power coming up out of the Bitch at Hallett! Save the money on a built shortblock and put an eaton diff in the rear and hang the tail any time you want!

[Grape]

e85 is inconsistent as fuck. ya, let me take this fuel that blends with water out of a tank that's underground............

pump gas is bad enough, jeez

[jnobles06]

Haha - Newb

I'm not the guy arguing that meth injection is better on a mustang than e85.

I don't need to read an article about a Subaru engine with a small turbo making small horsepower numbers to convince me that e85 is better than methanol injection.

I base my opinion from hands on experience

you still obviously can't read. check the end of post 17

and i tune my own cars with sct PRP and an LM2 wideband datalogger

[Andy@PrimeTuning]

Haha - Newb

I'm not the guy arguing that meth injection is better on a mustang than e85.

I don't need to read an article about a Subaru engine with a small turbo making small horsepower numbers to convince me that e85 is better than methanol injection.

I base my opinion from hands on experience

[jnobles06]

availability near most of the race tracks is ZERO. Considering you can go through 30 to 50 gallons in a weekend, it makes it a pain to bring with you.

As for Meth injection, that's fine to try and stop detonation...but the HEAT is what is going to kill the cooling system. Seriously, once you step up over a stock mustang power level, heat becomes a major factor in killing parts while on track. 9 seconds at the drag strip is nothing compared to 30 minutes at full tilt. Even highway racing is peanuts.

Throwing boost into the picture or putting intercoolers in the path of the radiator takes CAREFUL planning to make things stay cool and last. Personally, I'd love to see some Temp data on the casing of a centri on a road racing/open track car. I bet you cook bearings like sausage for fat people at IHOP.




How big is the average Meth injection tank? Can it last 20 to 30 minutes under full throttle? Now you got to fill that after every run and hope it doesn't fail.

When open tracking or road racing, KEEP IT SIMPLE. 4V's already go into limp mode around 220 degree water temp. Build for simplicity and longevity and don't listen to some shop so willing to help you spend money when they OBVIOUSLY have no clue what they are talking about. Consider the weight of all that S/C gear on the nose of the car as well.

Stay N/A....you will love it!

they make trunk mount kits and you can make the res as large as you want. i want to know who said anything about this guy racing full throttle for 30min? plus one of the main benefits of water/ meth and e85 is cooler combustion chamber temps.


and all the parts you listed are going to run about 15k. i had every MM suspension part on my old 2k gt and it was about 8-9k worth. not to mention 2k for a tranny/ clutch, and 5k for the built motor.

[jnobles06]

The article stated nothing of INCREASING the boost. As you typically do with E85 in the car.

Also the Meth Kit has many failure points. To where if you tune aggressively for the meth it can go bad quick if something fails.

shut it newb. reading > you

and do you not tune aggressively for E85? its a given when building a high performance car shit will break plus the have fail safes like pressure safety switches.

Utilizing similar boost pressures as those for methanol injection, we now started to change fuel and timing parameters to best match the high-octane character of the E85. Surprisingly, additional ignition timing over that used for methanol injection did not heavily impact torque and power output (Figure 1, lower panels). However, the timing was higher than that used for pump fuel as we ran much higher boost (22 compared to 19 PSI), which normally requires a substantial drop in ignition timing.

[SKMCOBRA]

Shortblock has NOTHING to do with it. Unless you get the motor and all the heat exchangers cool with seriously upgraded cooling, they all start shutting down about 3/4 through the session. They heat soak and start popping head gaskets when the driver doesn't back out of the pinging. Only boosted cars I have seen last are SOME subaru's and the Uber BMW's and Merc's.

Putting an intercooler in front of the radiator on a centri or turbo car just makes the problem worse.

Stay N/A, build for RPM and get the car light. No need for boost.

The intercooler in front of the radiator has been my biggest concern from what I have read on corner-carvers. I would definately box in the radiator if I went that route.

[SKMCOBRA]

Back to your original question, here is what I would recommend.

-Stroker shortblock to take advantage of increasing Compression ratio to 11:1
-Ported heads, Custom N/A cams and full Longtube exhaust
-switch to GT style water neck and oil filter housing to use external oil cooler.
-Tune it to spin to 7500rpm.
-Get a light weight clutch setup, spec sells a nice 10.5" that weighs nothing, but sacrifices city driving.
-Consider a trans upgrade away from the T45...once you get some power, you are going to break that sucker.
-Radiator upgrades and ducting
-Brake upgrade.
-suspension mods..suggest Maximum Motorsports.
-if it's a track only toy, lose the a/c and get the weight off the nose of the car.

I think I know who this is.....I recognize the screen name from other boards....KEEP IT SIMPLE!

I already have LT's and complete o/r exhaust dumping just past the rear axle. Much of my suspension is MM and my set up came from their advice. I also have modified breaks and run Motul fluid, but would like a nice two piece rotor when cash allows. Wanting to keep the car somewhat comfortably streetable, thus why I haven't made some of the mod recommendations you mention. It is not a track dedicated car...at least not right now.