Originally posted by Big Thumper
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ya, would probably be much more prevalent if i wasn't running skinnies on it. looking forward to seeing how much better it acts with the bump steer and stiffer springs.
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90% of people with lowered F-body's dont see either. I sure do when I drive their car and it hits bumps in the road and it darts around like a wet noodle.Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI am going to order a kit, but I am still having trouble seeing how this would cause the suspension to bind however. Just trying to visualize, seems like the wheels would turn in or out before the suspension would bind.
If they are not in synch with each other, they fight each other.
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ahh, okay, that makes sense. i wasn't thinking about it binding at the rack but rather at the tie rod endOriginally posted by Baron View PostThey are like a ball joint, and can only go up and down so far. You may be maxing the upper angle of the inner rod, and thus loosing travel that way.
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They are like a ball joint, and can only go up and down so far. You may be maxing the upper angle of the inner rod, and thus loosing travel that way.Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
I am buying the kit dangle, I just STILL can't see how the angle of the tie rods could cause the front to bind. Either way I am going to switch the springs and do the bumpsteer up front. It sucks because I won't have it ready for this weekend and I am out of town for weddings the next two weekends after that.
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tie rod ends are not unlimited in deflection angleOriginally posted by dville_gt View PostI am going to order a kit, but I am still having trouble seeing how this would cause the suspension to bind however. Just trying to visualize, seems like the wheels would turn in or out before the suspension would bind.
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Originally posted by turbostang View PostQuit trying to jew yourself out of spending money homo. You should have had a bump steer kit on your car from the start, whether or not it fixes THIS problem - it's a problem all in its own.
It's entirely possible that the car is so heavily biased to the nose, that's why it's difficult to move. (springs would help that a lot, but likely not 'fix' it)
I am buying the kit dangle, I just STILL can't see how the angle of the tie rods could cause the front to bind. Either way I am going to switch the springs and do the bumpsteer up front. It sucks because I won't have it ready for this weekend and I am out of town for weddings the next two weekends after that.
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Quit trying to jew yourself out of spending money homo. You should have had a bump steer kit on your car from the start, whether or not it fixes THIS problem - it's a problem all in its own.Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI am going to order a kit, but I am still having trouble seeing how this would cause the suspension to bind however. Just trying to visualize, seems like the wheels would turn in or out before the suspension would bind.
It's entirely possible that the car is so heavily biased to the nose, that's why it's difficult to move. (springs would help that a lot, but likely not 'fix' it)
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I am going to order a kit, but I am still having trouble seeing how this would cause the suspension to bind however. Just trying to visualize, seems like the wheels would turn in or out before the suspension would bind.
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This. Don't try to force the bit in. Let the drill do all the work and it will pretty much center itself.Originally posted by Grape View Postjust drill that shit on the car, all you are doing is making a tapered hole, round.
My Moroso kit has worked flawlessly on my GT. The steering rods need to be as level as possible.
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just drill that shit on the car, all you are doing is making a tapered hole, round.
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UPR is what I have, and it doesn't require any drilling.Originally posted by dville_gt View Postany decent (read: not baller baller brooks stuff) bump steer kits you can think of?
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i've got a large press and vice.Originally posted by jw33 View PostUnless you have a really great drill press, the correct bit(s), and a vise to hold it all down I wouldn't even attempt it. A machine shop charged me a whole $25. You can eyeball the shim stack, but you will get much better results using a gauge. PM CYAZ06. He has the right gauge and tools to set it up correctly and the car will drive much better. Money well spent IMO.
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Unless you have a really great drill press, the correct bit(s), and a vise to hold it all down I wouldn't even attempt it. A machine shop charged me a whole $25. You can eyeball the shim stack, but you will get much better results using a gauge. PM CYAZ06. He has the right gauge and tools to set it up correctly and the car will drive much better. Money well spent IMO.
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no, it won't be perfect, but a strut front end will only give you about 3" total travel that has decent bump if you do all the right stuff anyway.Originally posted by dville_gt View Posthttp://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=448
Edit: I see you can do this on a drill press.
Do you really have to buy the bump steer gauge to set this?
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Edit: I see you can do this on a drill press.
Do you really have to buy the bump steer gauge to set this?Last edited by dville_gt; 09-26-2012, 10:00 AM.
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