Originally posted by Big Thumper
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The inner tie rod end only has so much vertical movement before it binds at the rack....and after reading more....I see grape and others pointed it out too....Originally posted by dville_gt View PostI am going to order a kit, but I am still having trouble seeing how this would cause the suspension to bind however. Just trying to visualize, seems like the wheels would turn in or out before the suspension would bind.
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They did, I just didn't understand that the bind was happening at the inner tie rod, for some reason I was stuck imagining it at the outer.Originally posted by aggie97 View PostThe inner tie rod end only has so much vertical movement before it binds at the rack....and after reading more....I see grape and others pointed it out too....
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unless the rack is really new, it's a stretch becuase the inners loosen up a lot over time. Manual rack may be a little different but you never know. The sounds and driveability you described earlier in the thread makes me think the strut is Mis-marked and is actually for an SN95 and is too long. see if you can find a fox strut and compare them to be sure. Would not be the first time a vendor mis-labeled a part and caused problems.Originally posted by dville_gt View PostThey did, I just didn't understand that the bind was happening at the inner tie rod, for some reason I was stuck imagining it at the outer.
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Well, drop the tie rods off and push up and down on it. Takes an entire 10 minutes and it's almost free except for the $.10 cotter pin. Maybe you can pick up a pair of used pins or make some out of paperclips to save some money. Zip-ties are cheap too...
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Originally posted by jw33 View PostWell, drop the tie rods off and push up and down on it. Takes an entire 10 minutes and it's almost free except for the $.10 cotter pin. Maybe you can pick up a pair of used pins or make some out of paperclips to save some money. Zip-ties are cheap too...Did this tonight, they have a lot more movement then the car uses.Originally posted by dville_gt View Post(pulled the ends to see and they go WAY up).
Didn't change the front end being tight.
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that control arm at ride height is at a retarded amount of angle. you need to get some ball joints from http://www.howeracing.com/p-7943-how...oog-k8259.aspx so you can adjust the pin height of the ball joint.pinto gt with wood trim
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How do those work?Originally posted by Grape View Postthat control arm at ride height is at a retarded amount of angle. you need to get some ball joints from http://www.howeracing.com/p-7943-how...oog-k8259.aspx so you can adjust the pin height of the ball joint.
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you can order different length pins to change the distance from the taper to the center axis of the ball. it's primary use is to adjust roll centers and spindle heights on race cars. get in touch with somebody up there, then send the picture you last posted and say "help me"Originally posted by dville_gt View PostHow do those work?pinto gt with wood trim
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Thanks for that link....I need a pair of those for my car after having to get rid of the drop spindles.Originally posted by Grape View Postthat control arm at ride height is at a retarded amount of angle. you need to get some ball joints from http://www.howeracing.com/p-7943-how...oog-k8259.aspx so you can adjust the pin height of the ball joint.
And after thinking about it....the OP needs to buy my drop spindles to help fix his problem!
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you might have legality issues in your class with those.Originally posted by aggie97 View PostThanks for that link....I need a pair of those for my car after having to get rid of the drop spindles.
And after thinking about it....the OP needs to buy my drop spindles to help fix his problem!
pinto gt with wood trim
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