what would you do

[Mike]

Any updates?

[Blackpony]

No but I can

I would suggest doing that, just to see if there is any ''glitter'' ie metal shavings in it. this can tell you a bunch as to what is going on with your motor internally. cut it open, remove the filter material then stretch it out on a table and pour the oil from the filter into a small clear container like a cut open bottle. it will let you hold it up to a light and see if there is anything in there.

[TEAMJACOB]

ur fucked

Throw me some of your Obama money so I can fix it

[TEAMJACOB]

have you cut open the oil filter yet?

No but I can

[naynay]

ur fucked

[Blackpony]

have you cut open the oil filter yet?

[TEAMJACOB]

so i am seeking expert advice here. on the road the car is pretty smooth until 3500 rpm when the vibration sets in. i have pulled the drive shaft and tranny so far. the bell housing is still on the car. with the transmission out of the car, the motor more "putters" from 1700-2500 as if there is a miss. that is what it feels like anyway. at 2500 it smooths out and is smooth as ice all the way up to 5000 rpm. i didnt go past 5000.
so on the road vibration at speeds>3500
tranny pulled vibration >1700 but <2500 and no vibration above 2500.

the vibration while driving felt like a mechanical vibration while what i am feeling with the tranny pulled feels more like a miss.

is it still probable to be a rotating assembly issue? thanks

[jyro]

I've built many motors

my 351w has a vibration in the motor, so ive been told. it has a ton of goodies in it but the fact remains, there is a vibration.

Some were balanced, some not. As long as I used the correct balance flywheel and balancer for the crankshaft you couldn't tell the motor wasn't balanced. I'm sure a motor will last longer balanced but usually something else will fail before a crankshaft will because of inbalance.

I bought a 66 f100 someone had converted to a 351w. it had a 50oz balancer and a 28oz flexplate. It had a vibration above 45. I changed the balancer for a Dorman 28oz and it was a big difference.

[STROKD]

As mentioned, get it up to where it vibrates on the highway and key the car off... If noise is still there it's flywheel or driveshaft probably. Do u have a 28 oz flywheel? If noise is rpm related, check balancer and make sure it's 28 too. I had a vibration that was rpm related and I never fixed it. Crank snapped and broke into 3 pieces, turns out my balancer spun and came apart internally...

[91CoupeMike]

This was my thinking but people insist somethings are still turning even when clutch depressed

With the driveshaft off it will spin even with the clutch disengaged. It doesnt spin with power output, just spins because everything else is spinning and I'm sure the clutch disk is still catching a tiny bit of rotation. It's not 100% efficient.

With the driveshaft on it will not spin, and put it in gear so it's doesn't neutral spin, even the slightest.

With a trans out of gear and even hand turning the input, the out put will turn. (on a bench). If you hold the output it will stop, but it's synronozied.

Really kind of Irrelevant to be honest.

It's could be the pressure plate not being torqued correctly.

[TEAMJACOB]

If the clutch is in, engine running and car is stopped(e-brake up), the driveshaft sure as shit isnt spinning.

Well yeah

[Pooter]

This was my thinking but people insist somethings are still turning even when clutch depressed

If the clutch is in, engine running and car is stopped(e-brake up), the driveshaft sure as shit isnt spinning.

[TEAMJACOB]

ATI, UTI, or Wyotech?

K mart

[TEAMJACOB]

Why not just press the clutch with trans is gear to eliminate driveline issues without pulling anything?

The only thing you can't test with it all together is the pressure plate balance.

This was my thinking but people insist somethings are still turning even when clutch depressed

[91CoupeMike]

ati, uti, or wyotech?

tcc