Originally posted by Blackpony
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Oil leak, rear lower intake.
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I have a 5/8 line hooked to each valve cover, both run to a catch can with a breather on top od the can, then a small 3/8 hose run from the top of the breather to the tip of the air cleaner just to suck and steam that might show its face out of the breather. Thus far 0 issues and I have done this to more then one car and not a single issue with those cars.
A vacuum pump is ideal but not always accessible.
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depending upon the application, I couldn't agree with you more. For a street car, I get tired of the crank vapor odor produced without one and running open breathers.Originally posted by majorownage View PostFuck running a PCV.
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Are you connecting the crankcase vent line to vacuum source. I understand the part about it being metered air, my concern with having a pcv valve connected to vacuum and the crank vent connected to vacuum with out some sort of a regulator is that excessive vacuum pulled in the crankcase would have a possible problem with sucking seals or gaskets in. Similar to excessive blow by / crankcase pressure blowing seals and gaskets out.Originally posted by Diabolic View PostThe air it's pulling has already been metered. I have literally dozens of hours datalogged in my cobra and noted no change in part throttle nor wot AFR changes when moving the hose to the rear of the tb. No change in the LTFT's. Just my personal experience here.
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Is try it without the can first, if you get a little oil smoke then yeah add a cheap can. And not water seperator from Lowe's.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostSince I'm using stock valve covers I had to cut the baffle out. So wouldn't that cause excessive oil burn from oil splashing up the fill tube?
How about adding a oil catch can? They're cheap.
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Originally posted by Blackpony View PostAfter the blade is a vacuum source, before is not. There is no need to have to vacuum lines running to the crankcase. The pcv line is plenty sufficient to evac at idle. Before the blade it will still evac under wot.
Since I'm using stock valve covers I had to cut the baffle out. So wouldn't that cause excessive oil burn from oil splashing up the fill tube?
How about adding a oil catch can? They're cheap.
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After the blade is a vacuum source, before is not. There is no need to have to vacuum lines running to the crankcase. The pcv line is plenty sufficient to evac at idle. Before the blade it will still evac under wot.
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My question is, why does it matter of its before or after the throttle blade?
When its wide open it shouldn't matter?
I couldn't see before or after the MAF, but since the air is already metered it shouldn't matter?
Fill me in here guiz
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Tie the valve cover into the induction in front of the tb. Sn95 cars are done like this from the factory. PCB at the rear of the intake ties into the upper plentum with full vacuum at idle.
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The air it's pulling has already been metered. I have literally dozens of hours datalogged in my cobra and noted no change in part throttle nor wot AFR changes when moving the hose to the rear of the tb. No change in the LTFT's. Just my personal experience here.
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[QUOTE=91CoupeMike;977505]So I did not have the pcv filter, I don't think it will help anything. And I don't think the seal is blowing out, it's just leaking. It's dry everywhere, smoke comes up from it running down the block, rolling off the starter right onto the header tube. I'm thinking It smokes at wot because more oil is flowing, more leak and more heat so more smoke!
Lets hope!
For as far as blow by goes, at idle the oil cap has vacuum, but I know at rpm is when it's more prone to blow by.
1, the pcv filter will help keep pcv system from pulling oil droplets into/through the intake.
2, the silicone/block seal is fighting 2 battles right now explained in # 3 and 4.
3, The oil leaking more at higher rpm isn't because of more oil flowing, it's because of more crank case pressure. At wide open throttle there is no vacuum being produced in the intake, as you've already noted. Because of this, blow by (it occurs naturally and is increased by age and engine wear) and the pressures created by the rotating assembly build inside the motor. IT WILL FIND IT'S WAY OUT SOMEWHERE.
4, Since you are only running a pcv valve and no vent (the tube that used to go to your throttle body) you are allowing excessive vacuum to pull on the inside of the motor at idle, cruise, and decel (heavy decel from a high rpm downshift can pull 26-28 inches possibly). This can physically suck seals and silicone sealed areas in. Secondly it has the opposite effect under wide open and low vacuum times. Now you are creating pressure with no natural way to vent, pressure builds and it's gong to push something out.
Now as far as Diablolic is saying about connecting the vent side to the intake, I feel he is incorrect. This is going to create a vacuum leak in a sense because now you are pulling full intake vacuum on the crankcase and not giving it a vent source. Someone else correct me if I'm wrong.
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They say I'm 2 steps ahead of you already pal.Originally posted by MattB View PostYou should race more people in it on the street.
Don't treat me like vin diesel, I'm not that cool yet.
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So I did not have the pcv filter, I don't think it will help anything. And I don't think the seal is blowing out, it's just leaking. It's dry everywhere, smoke comes up from it running down the block, rolling off the starter right onto the header tube. I'm thinking It smokes at wot because more oil is flowing, more leak and more heat so more smoke!
Lets hope!
For as far as blow by goes, at idle the oil cap has vacuum, but I know at rpm is when it's more prone to blow by.
I'll post up after I fix the leak, install the filter and add a hose from the valve cover.
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