a tad bit confused, what to do....??

[stevo]

Lastly, make sure the boost gauge is reading correct. Not from a bad sending line, but from a screwed up gauge.

Stevo

[fbodyjohnny]

i havent beat on it since when the video was taken. other than that, i've just been cruising with it in and out of town, keepin it clean thats all.

[Broncojohnny]

I didn't realize you had no boost readings at all.

Honestly I see about a billion things wrong with that car that would drive me nuts. Just little things that I would have to fix.

And like others said, I wouldn't be beating on it until you can see what the boost gauge says and more importantly, what the fuel pressure is under boost.

[Doug Hatton]

Nice.....

cams and everything..

[VaderTT]

If it was me, I'd get bigger injectors, calibrated MAF, ditch the FMU and get an SCT chip tune for it. FMU's are a bandaid to a bigger problem (not enough injector).

x2

[Cooter]

you'd also be better of if the charge piping actually lined up with the blower discharge

[Doug Hatton]

And quit beating on it until you figure out the tune, etc.! If you think you're frustrated with it now, imagine having to tear it down to fix the headgaskets...

[turbostang]

I would have to see the car, internet diagnosis is no bueno.

but...

judging by the video you posted, that car is SLOW - meaning it's not making any boost. Whether the belt is slipping, the boost is leaking etc..

That shitty hose clamp/silicone coupler arrangement between the blower and throttle body is no good. The silicone is WAY too long, and those clamps are overtightened. You'd be MUCH better off with the proper clamps and silicone.

[fbodyjohnny]

IF you are seeing vacuum - no matter where the guage is T'd in at, you should see boost. The myth about where the guage is hooked up at is just that, a myth. You can't see a difference with your eyes, and it's tuff to measure with proper equipment..... so, long story short, leave the guage and focus on the real problem...

You have a boost leak, or a belt slipping - you can bet on that.

IF those two things check out, THEN - it's that wimpy ass blower. IF it's a healthy 306, that thing will only make ~7psi or so, on a good day..IF it's a stocker 302 with stock heads, maybe 10-12psi?

If it's a stroker motor, well... maybe 1-2psi?

As mentioned above, loose the FMU (and that janky ass hose clamp arrangement!). Get some 42# injectors and a chip or someway to tune it.

Once you find the boost leak, or the problem- it'll pick up a LOT of power. Most likely blow a headgasket too!

you're exactly right, thats why im so damn confused. it definitely DOES NOT have a boost leak.. i have it clamped and sealed pretty good and tight everywhere.... for all i know, since afterall my fuel pressure guage AND boost guage is mounted OUTSIDE the car, the cold weather and water and snow coulda fucked it up somehow and all of this could just be because of that. but i really dont know, if i had more time, i would take it up to the shop around here and explain the situation/setup to someone i trust, and see what they think, and help them work somethin out for it. and its a 306.. TF heads, cams and everything..

[fbodyjohnny]

The first thing I would do if I had bought that car is to go through and see what is going where.

You can get a boost reading from pulling the 1/8" pipe plug that is in the neck of the intake just after the throttle body. Rerun your own line to the gauge and rip out what ever other unused unwanted lines there are left behind.

You need to figure out what you are running for a fuel pump/injectors/tune. Me being the OCD person that I am, if I question it I replace it. Since you did not do this work from the start I would start with redoing a lot of what you have there. Hell the first sign of trouble (ie: no boost reading, lack of power, etc) I would be pulling it all down and inspecting it. No offense you probably got a good deal on it but the previous owner did not exactly sell you a gem.

When do you leave the states? Tear it down, take A LOT of pictures and make a new shopping list. Get back over here and start saving some money. Order a new Dart/Boss longblock. Last we talked you were thinking Turbo.....a lot of people on here would recommend you go that route. Look into BS3, AEM, FAST for a new ECM and go speed density and ditch the MAF. Build a bullet proof fuel delivery system and just know that your first injector choice may not be the best in the end.

ok, well i only have a couple more days in the states, and since the weather is cold as hell here im not really wantin to fight the tangled mess under the hood lol, but i do have a wee bit of a shopping list built up for just makin things right under there. i've had my fun with it more than a few times, and i'm very surprised how well its held up so far lol. its pretty stout. i launched it for the 1st time today, all i can say is holy shit. i have never gone from 0 to 100 that fast, and my cobalt was puttin down 356whp 363wtqe on 26 psi from a 20g turbo.... so i have no idea what kidna power its puttin to the ground NOR do i know how much boost its puttin through due to the guage situation, but honestly, i KNOW FOR A FACT that its faster than my cobalt. all day. it would smoke the dogshit out of it no problem. i'm in love with this car now lol.

[turbostang]

ok, so today i decided to get under tthe hood and take a longer than normal look at how things are setup since all the work was done BEFORE i got the car, here is one big thing i am confused on, i have my own idea for a solution, but i want some input from you guys.
#1
boost guage is obviously not hooked up to anything that would give my guage a "proper" reading, it seems to be hooked up to where it only reads vacuum, but no boost at WOT.... havent chased down the vac line for it, or even found the solenoid. honestly, couldnt tell ya if its mechanical or not cuz there is lines going everywhere to and from. now, what i DO know is to get a proper reading for boost pressure, it is BEST to tap into the intake pipe a few inches away from the throttle body, but as you will see in the pictures, there is nothing....
....i understand that this may be a bit retarded on my part, but ok,, without a bypass system or "blowoff" of some sort, what happens to the excess pressure being blown through the piping if the throttle plate is damn near it closed during shifting, revving, whatever.... ??? is that something that whoever had the car before me fucked up on too??? i would think that would run a serious risk of fucking something up, all that pressure built up in the piping and nowhere to go.... but since the MAF sensor is on the air intake, i can almost see why this whole thing would be idk, capable of going both ways, im just so damn confused. shit like this was easy on my cobalt, but thats because I am the one that did everything to it so its easier to figure out issues... but this,, wow.

IF you are seeing vacuum - no matter where the guage is T'd in at, you should see boost. The myth about where the guage is hooked up at is just that, a myth. You can't see a difference with your eyes, and it's tuff to measure with proper equipment..... so, long story short, leave the guage and focus on the real problem...

You have a boost leak, or a belt slipping - you can bet on that.

IF those two things check out, THEN - it's that wimpy ass blower. IF it's a healthy 306, that thing will only make ~7psi or so, on a good day..IF it's a stocker 302 with stock heads, maybe 10-12psi?

If it's a stroker motor, well... maybe 1-2psi?

As mentioned above, loose the FMU (and that janky ass hose clamp arrangement!). Get some 42# injectors and a chip or someway to tune it.

Once you find the boost leak, or the problem- it'll pick up a LOT of power. Most likely blow a headgasket too!

[KBScobravert]

The first thing I would do if I had bought that car is to go through and see what is going where.

You can get a boost reading from pulling the 1/8" pipe plug that is in the neck of the intake just after the throttle body. Rerun your own line to the gauge and rip out what ever other unused unwanted lines there are left behind.

You need to figure out what you are running for a fuel pump/injectors/tune. Me being the OCD person that I am, if I question it I replace it. Since you did not do this work from the start I would start with redoing a lot of what you have there. Hell the first sign of trouble (ie: no boost reading, lack of power, etc) I would be pulling it all down and inspecting it. No offense you probably got a good deal on it but the previous owner did not exactly sell you a gem.

When do you leave the states? Tear it down, take A LOT of pictures and make a new shopping list. Get back over here and start saving some money. Order a new Dart/Boss longblock. Last we talked you were thinking Turbo.....a lot of people on here would recommend you go that route. Look into BS3, AEM, FAST for a new ECM and go speed density and ditch the MAF. Build a bullet proof fuel delivery system and just know that your first injector choice may not be the best in the end.

[Broncojohnny]

How much boost is that blower making?

[fbodyjohnny]

i've already done that once, then i had a metal pipe cut and bent that actually matches up to both ends, but i STILL need to get more T-bolt clamps

[dville_gt]

sorry, didnt mean to throw the word "fabricate" out there like i was trying to make a cardboard tube with a bottle cap and spring in it for a bypass valve lol... what i would be comfortable with is something similar to a Tial as long as i have plenty of room to put a flange on the pipe and also soemthing for the cold air intake... thats the easy part. how it will react to it, i dont know, but i just hate knowing that all that pressure is just STAYING in there during shifts, even if it is 2 psi lol

overkill, put that money towards getting the real issues taken care off. you are making a big deal about nothing. when you blow the discharge tube off then re-visit