Originally posted by grabberblue_11
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stock 2012 5.0 manual
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Most of the 6 speed manual cars make anywhere fro 380-400. I have seen a big gap in dyno numbers on the new 5.0's. We had one come in that made 405 hp bone stock. Keep in mind guys that Saturday was cool temps and the humidity wasn't crazy high so cars should have been making good numbers.
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Same here mine made 371 stock and the other one made 388 with a catback and xpipe.Originally posted by Cobraman View PostThat's pretty high IMO. I've seen ive seen most stoc graphs at around 375ish
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Originally posted by 46Tbird View PostIn that flowchart above, the 'P1000' code means that the computer's readiness codes are not set. In other words, it has a new computer calibration and it's still learning to communicate with its sensors. It normally takes a few hundred miles to remove this code.
This is a telltale sign that someone has done exactly what you describe. Please note where the chart goes from there.
I agree I need a tune. Instant throttle response and another 15ish horsepower would be nice but the car is so new I don't want to screw the warranty. I want to get at least 15-20k on it first.Egg Zachary!!Originally posted by Rick Modena View PostI feel the same way, I'm going to let the warranty expire before I do any mods. I had an 02 Lightning that ate a transmission and it cost me a couple of thousand dollars. I want to hear no excuses from Ford if something goes wrong with my new GT. Once the warranty expires, KB LC blower, LT, full exhaust and then we see whats up crackers!
<-----shopping for mine.
I'll do a mild exhaust, mgw shifter, MTX redline transmission fluid, and oil changes with ZDDP additive for my only mods until the warranty is at least half way through it's term. All the while saving up for the 7** hp mark.
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I feel the same way, I'm going to let the warranty expire before I do any mods. I had an 02 Lightning that ate a transmission and it cost me a couple of thousand dollars. I want to hear no excuses from Ford if something goes wrong with my new GT. Once the warranty expires, KB LC blower, LT, full exhaust and then we see whats up crackers!Originally posted by 46Tbird View PostInstant throttle response and another 15ish horsepower would be nice but the car is so new I don't want to screw the warranty. I want to get at least 15-20k on it first.
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In that flowchart above, the 'P1000' code means that the computer's readiness codes are not set. In other words, it has a new computer calibration and it's still learning to communicate with its sensors. It normally takes a few hundred miles to remove this code.Originally posted by spd2stang View PostI havent had a problem with warranty through ford. Before you go load in your stock tune and i install my stock intake and baby it to Ford down the street, then reinstall when the work is done.
This is a telltale sign that someone has done exactly what you describe. Please note where the chart goes from there.
I agree I need a tune. Instant throttle response and another 15ish horsepower would be nice but the car is so new I don't want to screw the warranty. I want to get at least 15-20k on it first.
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Factory tune my car ran lean, even after an E-tune the car was still lean in parts of the pulls.
Not until my custom tune did it run where it should be.

I havent had a problem with warranty through ford. Before you go load in your stock tune and i install my stock intake and baby it to Ford down the street, then reinstall when the work is done.
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free T-Shirt and a sticker.......Originally posted by 90GT50 View PostSweet, what did I win?
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^^^winnerOriginally posted by 90GT50 View PostFrom what I heard a lot of cars were getting lean numbers on the wideband there. It could be the placement of the sensor, or the actual sensor itself. I wouldn't worry about it.
Sensor was not reading correct and by the 54th car it was way off. We replaced the sensor this morning and and the Dyno gods are happy
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what's wrong with a N/A engine being 14.0? I've seen a few that like to be there.....like all 43 of them on sunday
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Don't get all pissy pants, I am not saying you are doing it wrong, I am sure that most of the cars you dyno don't have cats anyway so the point is null. On those cars that do they either need to understand the AFR is going to be skewed (by how much nobody knows) or that they are going to have to have a $3 bung welded in if they want accurate numbers. If I were paying 350-400 for a tune and were keeping the cats I'd get a bung welded in.Originally posted by Blackpony View PostHow would you suggest we get a better reading before the cats? We definately need to send out a mass email to every shop in existence to let them know they are doing it wrong...
FYI the dotted red line is 13:1, his car was reading 14.5-15.0:1 so even if .5 variance that still puts him at 14.0...
I would definately suggest either getting a tune or checking with the factory. All the other 5.0's we have dynoed in the past run between 12.5-12.0 from the factory. Yours is definately on the lean side.
Is he running lean, probably so, but reading after the cats means you have to guesstimate is all I am saying.
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