Anyone into car audio?

[LaserSVT]

$800. I just took some pictures of them yesterday and don't see any scratches on them.

[silverhatch]

What are you looking to get for the pair?

[LaserSVT]

1000/1 and 450/4

[inline 6]

What JL stuff do you have?

[LaserSVT]

And its brother has been found. Currently in Italy getting freshened up.

[LaserSVT]

And just when I thought my system was near completion a friend calls me up and offers an unpassable offer on a new Mosconi Zero 3 amp. Now I will have to sell my JLs and get the matching Mosconi 4 channel. LOL

[Roscoe]

I like the cars..... the cars that go boom.

[Gasser64]

They make lots of bass in the 50-100 hz range by giving up the ability to play it loud (output). They also give up the ability to play to lower frequencies (extension) and the bass they do make is sloppy (control).

Ok well that makes sense. Some kind of trade off. But at least you can get it back, by using that method in the vid. I just think that if you need those to catch up to OEM stuff, when buying aftermarket, they should include them with the speakers or say "For best results, use these". I'd never even heard of the idea before I randomly came across that vid while researching my latest speaker purchase. Even if it is sloppy oem bass, its better to have that then a total downgrade to a loss of midbass. Just imho

Makes it all sound... just not very well balanced. I know everyone has their own personal preferences.

[LaserSVT]

They make lots of bass in the 50-100 hz range by giving up the ability to play it loud (output). They also give up the ability to play to lower frequencies (extension) and the bass they do make is sloppy (control).

[Gasser64]

They are able to do that because they give up control, extension and output.

Can you please elaborate on this? I assume by control, you mean they have no EQ. But extension and output? Not real clear on those two.

Proper installation will always make the speakers sound the best that they can. Losing bass by replacing factory speakers does not happen in most cars, just some. Some Chrysler and jeeps (not wranglers) have quite a bit of bass from the factory speakers.

I had it happen on my wife's 2001 Volvo S80 (back in 2005, no longer have the car) and my 1994 Mustang GT. The mustang had the Mach 460 sound system, which was pretty awesome for factory, at that time. The volvo had something in the same vein... a big upgrade over normal factory sound. Iirc, it was a bose system. Not the best of course, but a damn sight better than regular stuff.

So in both of these setups, I noticed a drop in sound quality, to some degree. And the more I research and learn about it, the more I have to assume that what I was noticing was a loss in midbass. I'm still a noob to car audio.

But in both instances, the speaker quality went way up, as opposed to the stock ones in those cars. They were just way better speakers, no doubt about that. Yet I was still disappointed with that aspect. Kinda sucked, really. You pay all this money for the upgrades and installation, then you lose something that you liked. So I need to nail down a method to always use, and I'm hoping I've found it, with the building of these little "rings?" as you call them, for the door mids.

[inline 6]

Projects like that are exactly why I am building another cnc router.... and THIS time I will not sell it.

[EW]

Would you say that you would always recommend that, for better sound? And is losing some midbass something that you've also noticed, when going from factory speakers, to aftermarket upgrades? Without that mod, of course.

Proper installation will always make the speakers sound the best that they can. Losing bass by replacing factory speakers does not happen in most cars, just some. Some Chrysler and jeeps (not wranglers) have quite a bit of bass from the factory speakers.

[LaserSVT]

I have the FAST rings and I did notice an improvement in midbass. I have seen it a lot over the years though with a factory stereo making more bass in the doors with the factory speakers. Even when using nice high end replacements. They are able to do that because they give up control, extension and output. With the right install though you can overcome that.

[Gasser64]

Would you say that you would always recommend that, for better sound? And is losing some midbass something that you've also noticed, when going from factory speakers, to aftermarket upgrades? Without that mod, of course.

[EW]

I sell those rings. The function of the ring is to separate the front wave of the driver from the back wave of the driver which will improve bass performance. They work. $25/pr. Hopefully, your components are highpassed and you have a subwoofer which will reduce the low frequency workload of the door speaker.

Just out of curiosity, how much is that type of installation worth?
$25pr for FAST rings
$20 for two sheets of ABS
$20-30 for HDPE material
CA glue + activator
making two ABS baseplates
making two HDPE rings
assembly time for plate, ring, driver, foam
install-remove panel, mount assembly, reinstall door panel
not shown-crossover and tweeter install
4hr labor is my estimate