Anyone into car audio?

[LaserSVT]

As long as the tweeters can play to 3000hz you should be fine.





More changes.


Doubled the subwoofers power to a 1000/1.
Changed out the Hertz ML1600 mids for the new SI TM65s. Very potent mids. They have a solid kick all the way to 50hz. Really dig them.

[rickl]

Thanks! I would like to just replace the speakers and maybe add a small amp. I'm worried that if I put component speakers up front that the tweeters in the pillar are too far away from the door speakers and will have too much separation.

[LaserSVT]

yes, but they smell like ashtrays.

I can't wait to hear the review on the new tweets.

Well I can give you some more updates. The new tweeter showed up as did the new amp so I was able to run the system full active now. Been a couple days and I am thrilled beyond words. These tweeters are just amazing! They sound unlike anything I ever heard before. They have the crisp detailed and very airy highs of the old ribbon EMIT tweeters but are significantly louder and able to play to a much lower frequency. I have them high passed at 2.5khz with a 24db slope. My mids are high passed at 80hz with a 12db slope and low passed at 2.5khz with a 30db slope. Subs take over at 63hz with a 36db slope.
Sound stage is high and wide which is amazing considering the tweeters are at knee level.
Only downside is they are huge and VERY directional. Took some work to get them aimed properly. Overall though I couldnt be happier. I like them more than the $1200 Focal Be tweeters.

I just bought a 2014 F150 with the basic radio and would like to change out the front speakers for something with more clarity. I'm concerned that if I replace the door speakers I would need to eliminate the pillar tweeters which I'm guessing are responsible for the high "sound stage" that I like. I'm not crazy about the thought of nice door speakers with no pillar speakers and it sounding like the sound is coming from the floor. Hopefully that makes sense. After a few years in Field Artillery and body shops I think my hearing is kinda shot anyway. Any thoughts on what you might recommend?

You would need a component system and if the new Ford radios are anything like the older ones than they have a crossovered signal going to each driver and the door woofers are a suedo-summoned output. I always replace Ford stereos as they SUCK.
That being said you should look for something very effecient and with small tweeters to replace your stockers. Infinity Kappa components would probably work best as the tweeters can withstand a fairly low crossover point.
First thing you need to do is find out if the door speakers recieve a full range signal. If so just use their output to feed the new components. If not than you will have to find out what the tweeters high pass is and set up the system accordingly.
I will tell you in the newer F150s that the tweeter is angled down in the pillars and most people just reform them to house new tweeters that are properly aimed. Most good aftermarket tweeters do not want to be off axis more than 30* so pointing down will sound bad.

[rickl]

You're missing out. With all the processors and summing devices on the market today, there is no reason you can not keep the stock headunit and retain the stock look by hiding amps and speakers. Sure, I would like to sell everyone a new 9" Alpine monitor but even a mid-line car today is going to have a screen, maybe nav, USB, AUX, a backup camera, steering wheel controls, SiriusXM, iPod control, Bluetooth, etc, etc. Most people do not want to rebuy all that just to make their system sound good. A good processor/summing device is much cheaper than a new highend deck and there are tons of 5 channel amps available. Many modern factory decks either don't clip or only clip at the very top of the volume range. Some decks have crazy EQ curves to make their $3 speakers sound better but some are really flat. You just need someone with a RTA and oscilloscope to see what the stock system is doing and select your interface from there.

I just bought a 2014 F150 with the basic radio and would like to change out the front speakers for something with more clarity. I'm concerned that if I replace the door speakers I would need to eliminate the pillar tweeters which I'm guessing are responsible for the high "sound stage" that I like. I'm not crazy about the thought of nice door speakers with no pillar speakers and it sounding like the sound is coming from the floor. Hopefully that makes sense. After a few years in Field Artillery and body shops I think my hearing is kinda shot anyway. Any thoughts on what you might recommend?

[LaserSVT]

I don't know if Symmetry was ever 2K but the JL Cleansweep even including EVERY accessory (a total of 5 items), at full boat retail is only $705.95. The most Cleansweep items I have ever used together is 3. the cleansweep itself which is a stand alone unit if you don't need summing is $349.95 and has been since at least 2008. I did not look back any further than that.

It was 2007 when we got our first clean sweep and you are right, it was $700ish all in.
The Symmetry was 2k when it was still rack mount. By 2007 it shrunk down to a single small unit and was like 600ish I think.
Still, they have nothing compared to the current Mosconis or Alpines or JBLs. I think Mosconi 8 to 1 is the current top dog.

[EW]

That was the very first thing I did.



But yeah, current processors are amazing. You used to have to pay 2k to get a good one like a Symmetry or Clean Sweep but now they are under $400 and can make any factory stereo have a ruler flat output to feed a nice amp and speakers.


Here is an excellent thread on the subject that just poped up last week:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ry-radios.html

I don't know if Symmetry was ever 2K but the JL Cleansweep even including EVERY accessory (a total of 5 items), at full boat retail is only $705.95. The most Cleansweep items I have ever used together is 3. the cleansweep itself which is a stand alone unit if you don't need summing is $349.95 and has been since at least 2008. I did not look back any further than that.

[LaserSVT]

The Utopia Be speakers are simply amazing. The Beryllium tweeters are so crisp and detailed it makes you wanna cry. The midbass is a tad on the weak side but with a properly blended subwoofer its a non-issue. They can be had for $2200 without that crossover that is pretty much useless anyway due to everyone running them full active.

Great choice on the K2s. They have one of my favorite tweeters and they are freakin loud.


But for Focals top tier car system there is the Ultima. They are only $20,000 a pair.

[davbrucas]

A buddy of mine owns Sound Advice in Baton Rouge and is putting a system in my truck next week. I am keeping the stock head unit and adding 2 pair of the Focal K2 165KXR2's for the doors and some JL subs/amp. The Focal speakers are the best sounding speakers I have ever heard. I can't imagine what the $$$ ones above sound like!

[davbrucas]

One of you ballers should get a couple pairs of these speakers...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091NO5/Focal-Utopia-Be-No-5.html?tp=105

[LaserSVT]

The first purchase I make on a vehicle before I put in a system is a good 2-way alarm with decent range. Load it up with tilt sensor, back-up battery, horn honk, etc. There are also tricks to mounting/hiding stuff. They got me back in 2006 because I was in a meeting with my keys back in a drawer in my desk, and the vehicle was parked in a parking lot across the street. Bastards. But I've had much more elaborate systems ever since then, with zero issues. There are very few scenarios right now where I would feel like my stuff was vulnerable.

That was the very first thing I did.



But yeah, current processors are amazing. You used to have to pay 2k to get a good one like a Symmetry or Clean Sweep but now they are under $400 and can make any factory stereo have a ruler flat output to feed a nice amp and speakers.


Here is an excellent thread on the subject that just poped up last week:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/174444-irreplaceable-factory-radios.html

[Stephen]

I have focal door speakers and rear speakers in my civic and they sound pretty darn good

[jluv]

The first purchase I make on a vehicle before I put in a system is a good 2-way alarm with decent range. Load it up with tilt sensor, back-up battery, horn honk, etc. There are also tricks to mounting/hiding stuff. They got me back in 2006 because I was in a meeting with my keys back in a drawer in my desk, and the vehicle was parked in a parking lot across the street. Bastards. But I've had much more elaborate systems ever since then, with zero issues. There are very few scenarios right now where I would feel like my stuff was vulnerable.

[EW]

Nice setup man.

I used to love car audio, but never failed my car/truck/SUV would get hit once or twice a year to steal the stuff. The worst was when they could not remove the gear, but would still destroy the cabling/connectors/connections.

Now I stay stock. More power to y'all though, it's nice having clean sounding music.

You're missing out. With all the processors and summing devices on the market today, there is no reason you can not keep the stock headunit and retain the stock look by hiding amps and speakers. Sure, I would like to sell everyone a new 9" Alpine monitor but even a mid-line car today is going to have a screen, maybe nav, USB, AUX, a backup camera, steering wheel controls, SiriusXM, iPod control, Bluetooth, etc, etc. Most people do not want to rebuy all that just to make their system sound good. A good processor/summing device is much cheaper than a new highend deck and there are tons of 5 channel amps available. Many modern factory decks either don't clip or only clip at the very top of the volume range. Some decks have crazy EQ curves to make their $3 speakers sound better but some are really flat. You just need someone with a RTA and oscilloscope to see what the stock system is doing and select your interface from there.

[ceyko]

Nice setup man.

I used to love car audio, but never failed my car/truck/SUV would get hit once or twice a year to steal the stuff. The worst was when they could not remove the gear, but would still destroy the cabling/connectors/connections.

Now I stay stock. More power to y'all though, it's nice having clean sounding music.

[LaserSVT]

So far so good. They are very very sensitive about being on axis but even 30* off they sound very natural and crisp. They sound like a musical instrument, not an electronic device simulating an instrument.