Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My LSx Coupe Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 2165 Turbo Rail
    replied
    looks good in the vids can't wait to see what it will do with some boost

    Leave a comment:


  • 2165 Turbo Rail
    replied
    hey I welded that! JK.. but it does look like some of my junk welding on the Galaxie. That's why John welded and Nathan Tig'd on the GTO

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    Originally posted by Grape View Post
    my bender doesn't read that code.........
    highly advanced ms-paint based reader is required.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grape
    replied
    Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View Post
    Not an LS but is this an option?



    the only option i would have chosen in regards to that system, is a different man operating the welder

    Leave a comment:


  • Grape
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    this is the current plan.
    my bender doesn't read that code.........

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    the coupe had a good night at the cruise, didn't get the 6.9x i was looking for, but she has been dead consistent the last two times out. last 5-6 runs have all been 7.0x's @ ~98. made it into the brackets but had to bow out early due to a broken alternator bolt that allowed the alternator to shift and caused a horrendous belt slip squeal. got the track official to spray it down with vht hoping i could make it a few more runs but it just made the squeal worse so i decided to head home before i got stranded at the track. now she is on the chopping block getting ready for the turbo. so long 7's!

    here are some videos of her last n/a trip to the track.


    same run, slightly different view


    Leave a comment:


  • War Machine
    replied
    Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View Post
    Not an LS but is this an option?



    and I thought our welds looked bad lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    There is this guy's build. Not too big on some of the stuff he did though.

    Im new to this forum but ive been a long time lurker/learner on this site, ive abused the search button for quite some time now.... onto the fun...

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
    You WANT the flange against the inside of the frame. It should mount to the pinch weld. Besides, what's the difference between cutting the outside of the frame and the inside?
    more room for the downpipe, the further outboard i get it the more room inboard i have for the 5" 90*

    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by dville_gt View Post
    what about just notching the inside of the frame for the t6 flange which would push the whole turbo towards the outside of the car, then the output of the compressor would be on the outside of the frame rail and you'd just have to cut a hole in the bottom of the apron. i can only squeeze about another inch or so before the flange hits the inside of the frame rail and there is no way a 5" bend is going to clear everything (even with the additional inch)
    You WANT the flange against the inside of the frame. It should mount to the pinch weld. Besides, what's the difference between cutting the outside of the frame and the inside?

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
    Correct, that's a 3.5 or 4" downpipe AND a T4 turbo.

    The [main] problem is that the downpipe uses about 9.5" of space from the leading edge of the bend to the backside of the pipe (on a 90* bend). On a Ford engine/waterpump - that's ALL of the space that's available. Usually you have to tilt the downpipe outward some (think: more than 90* bend) to make that work... The LS engine appears to have a wider/bigger diameter waterpump pulley - makes it MORE of a problem.
    what about just notching the inside of the frame for the t6 flange which would push the whole turbo towards the outside of the car, then the output of the compressor would be on the outside of the frame rail and you'd just have to cut a hole in the bottom of the apron. i can only squeeze about another inch or so before the flange hits the inside of the frame rail and there is no way a 5" bend is going to clear everything (even with the additional inch)

    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    Correct, that's a 3.5 or 4" downpipe AND a T4 turbo.

    The [main] problem is that the downpipe uses about 9.5" of space from the leading edge of the bend to the backside of the pipe (on a 90* bend). On a Ford engine/waterpump - that's ALL of the space that's available. Usually you have to tilt the downpipe outward some (think: more than 90* bend) to make that work... The LS engine appears to have a wider/bigger diameter waterpump pulley - makes it MORE of a problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • dville_gt
    replied
    only problem i see is that it looks like you are using a 4in downpipe, i'll need to run a 5" pipe

    Leave a comment:


  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    Not an LS but is this an option?



    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    You don't have to cut out the whole apron like shown, only the cutout in the frame and corresponding other side of the circle.

    I've done this part a few times. The downpipe will NOT fit if you don't mount that turbo up against the edge of the frame and exit the compressor discharge out the bottom.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X