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My LSx Coupe Build
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hey I welded that! JK.. but it does look like some of my junk welding on the Galaxie. That's why John welded and Nathan Tig'd on the GTO
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the coupe had a good night at the cruise, didn't get the 6.9x i was looking for, but she has been dead consistent the last two times out. last 5-6 runs have all been 7.0x's @ ~98. made it into the brackets but had to bow out early due to a broken alternator bolt that allowed the alternator to shift and caused a horrendous belt slip squeal. got the track official to spray it down with vht hoping i could make it a few more runs but it just made the squeal worse so i decided to head home before i got stranded at the track. now she is on the chopping block getting ready for the turbo. so long 7's!
here are some videos of her last n/a trip to the track.
same run, slightly different view
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Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View PostNot an LS but is this an option?
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Originally posted by turbostang View PostYou WANT the flange against the inside of the frame. It should mount to the pinch weld. Besides, what's the difference between cutting the outside of the frame and the inside?
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Originally posted by dville_gt View Postwhat about just notching the inside of the frame for the t6 flange which would push the whole turbo towards the outside of the car, then the output of the compressor would be on the outside of the frame rail and you'd just have to cut a hole in the bottom of the apron. i can only squeeze about another inch or so before the flange hits the inside of the frame rail and there is no way a 5" bend is going to clear everything (even with the additional inch)
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Originally posted by turbostang View PostCorrect, that's a 3.5 or 4" downpipe AND a T4 turbo.
The [main] problem is that the downpipe uses about 9.5" of space from the leading edge of the bend to the backside of the pipe (on a 90* bend). On a Ford engine/waterpump - that's ALL of the space that's available. Usually you have to tilt the downpipe outward some (think: more than 90* bend) to make that work... The LS engine appears to have a wider/bigger diameter waterpump pulley - makes it MORE of a problem.
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Correct, that's a 3.5 or 4" downpipe AND a T4 turbo.
The [main] problem is that the downpipe uses about 9.5" of space from the leading edge of the bend to the backside of the pipe (on a 90* bend). On a Ford engine/waterpump - that's ALL of the space that's available. Usually you have to tilt the downpipe outward some (think: more than 90* bend) to make that work... The LS engine appears to have a wider/bigger diameter waterpump pulley - makes it MORE of a problem.
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only problem i see is that it looks like you are using a 4in downpipe, i'll need to run a 5" pipe
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You don't have to cut out the whole apron like shown, only the cutout in the frame and corresponding other side of the circle.
I've done this part a few times. The downpipe will NOT fit if you don't mount that turbo up against the edge of the frame and exit the compressor discharge out the bottom.
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