My LSx Coupe Build

[dville_gt]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-GM-CHEVY-19-x-26-DOUBLE-PASS-/390260076198?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5add502ea6#ht_4028wt_951

Going to go measure and see if this one will work, if so I'll probably pull the trigger on it.

[dville_gt]

It's 31" wide 20.5" tall and 3" thick. With the fans mounted to it the drivers side fan motor is the thickest part so from front of the rad to the back of the fan motor is 9"

Looks like the core on the f-body radiator is 24 3/4 x 17 1/4 x 1", so that radiator you posted will be too tall and too wide.

[2165 Turbo Rail]

here is one just like it... this may be the exact same one but I honestly can't remember...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...item588f171fa0

edit: that is the same company so I'm sure its the same radiator

[dville_gt]

You should consider tailpipes if you really want to make it quiet. I bet when you get the belt/water pump pulley sorted out you will have found your issue that caused the overheating.

I'd consider the tail pipes but since I plan to put an anti-roll bar on soon it would make running 3.5" tail pipes pretty much impossible.

see how short the upper hose is.. makes it much cleaner looking....

That does look a lot better. Thanks for measuring, I'll have to go see how much room I have to work with in the fox. Any chance you have a link to where you got that from?

[2165 Turbo Rail]

see how short the upper hose is.. makes it much cleaner looking....

[2165 Turbo Rail]

How much was the radiator? Is it designed for an fbody (if so that'd make my life easier with the a/c condensor and if the fbody electric fan setup).

The fbody fans are supposed to push around 9k cfm at full tilt so I am thinking it has to be the radiator.

I want to say the radiator was $150-$175 off ebay

[2165 Turbo Rail]

Since I have the radiator out I went to measure it just in case it's and option for you
It's 31" wide 20.5" tall and 3" thick. With the fans mounted to it the drivers side fan motor is the thickest part so from front of the rad to the back of the fan motor is 9"
By the way the fans flow 4400cfm
oh and the dual pass rad puts the upper hose on the pass side so it REALLY cleans up the look under the hood too.

[jw33]

You should consider tailpipes if you really want to make it quiet. I bet when you get the belt/water pump pulley sorted out you will have found your issue that caused the overheating.

[dville_gt]

I bought a dual pass rad off of ebay and fans off of a windstar minivan and put that in the Turbo LS1 GTO and it runs cool ALL the time.. even sitting in traffic with the AC blowing the car is always cool. just a thought

How much was the radiator? Is it designed for an fbody (if so that'd make my life easier with the a/c condensor and if the fbody electric fan setup).

The fbody fans are supposed to push around 9k cfm at full tilt so I am thinking it has to be the radiator.

[dville_gt]

Oh, and the car has over 700 miles on it now, made it past the dreaded 666 mile mark (sigh!)

[2165 Turbo Rail]

I bought a dual pass rad off of ebay and fans off of a windstar minivan and put that in the Turbo LS1 GTO and it runs cool ALL the time.. even sitting in traffic with the AC blowing the car is always cool. just a thought

Well, it's probably ghetto as hell, but I picked up some 4in drier duct at Lowes today, I originally got it to use as mock up for when I get some mandrel 4inch pipe. Well, I got it all in there and the inside is actually pretty smooth (a lot better than the PVC pipe). I might just run this for a while and see what my MAP numbers look like with it. It goes from the T/B into the drivers side fender well. I relocated the MAF into the fenderwell as well (only using it as a IAT sensor as I am running speed density), but it is still getting some heat soak so I bought a thermistor and am going to mount the sensor in the front bumper to give it fresh air.



One problem I did run into today is the cooling system isn't up to the job w/ac on. Got up to 230+ degrees today cruising around town (granted it was 103* when I was cruising). I cut out the kinked upper radiator hose and put in a 90* elbow to make sure that my problem isn't caused by the funky upper radiator hose I had been running, if that doesn't fix it I guess I'll have to go to an aftermarket radiator. There is one on eBay for like 240 that has a lot of good reviews concerning performance vs. stock.

Oh, and I blew out 2 200amp ANL fuses today trying to get the a/c idle under control, ended up putting in a 300amp fuse and haven't had any problems yet. I guess the 2/o wire, all the accessories on, heat soaked starter, and me hitting the starter over and over were too much for the 200amp fuse!

[dville_gt]

Well, made the first "long" trip in the coupe, little over 90 miles round trip. Wish I could say that it went smooth, but I had one little hickup shortly after leaving. I installed a new main belt that incorporated an extra idler pulley so the belt would have more wrap on the waterpump pulley. Had no problem with it the 2 or 3 short trips I took with the car after installing it. Well, it started shreding itself one rib at a time when I got on the highway, could hear it unraveling so I turned around and headed home. I removed that belt and put back on the original belt (sans the extra idler) and went on my way. Only problem with that is I can't run A/C for very long without the car getting too hot so I just cruised windows down on the way out to Weatherford. On the way home I got to run A/C though without it getting too hot (and it was still over 90* outside).

Anyway, out in Wford I cut off the 3.5" bullets, moved them towards the front of the car, then welded a set of 3.5" welded ultraflows behind them. I also managed to tuck the exhaust up a bit in the process. I am a little disappointed in the reduction of volume at idle (I guess that is to be expecte with two straight through mufflers), but at cruising rpm and WOT there is a big reduction in volume. So all in all it was worth it.

[Grimpala]

Well, it's probably ghetto as hell, but I picked up some 4in drier duct at Lowes today, I originally got it to use as mock up for when I get some mandrel 4inch pipe. Well, I got it all in there and the inside is actually pretty smooth (a lot better than the PVC pipe). I might just run this for a while and see what my MAP numbers look like with it. It goes from the T/B into the drivers side fender well. I relocated the MAF into the fenderwell as well (only using it as a IAT sensor as I am running speed density), but it is still getting some heat soak so I bought a thermistor and am going to mount the sensor in the front bumper to give it fresh air.



One problem I did run into today is the cooling system isn't up to the job w/ac on. Got up to 230+ degrees today cruising around town (granted it was 103* when I was cruising). I cut out the kinked upper radiator hose and put in a 90* elbow to make sure that my problem isn't caused by the funky upper radiator hose I had been running, if that doesn't fix it I guess I'll have to go to an aftermarket radiator. There is one on eBay for like 240 that has a lot of good reviews concerning performance vs. stock.

Oh, and I blew out 2 200amp ANL fuses today trying to get the a/c idle under control, ended up putting in a 300amp fuse and haven't had any problems yet. I guess the 2/o wire, all the accessories on, heat soaked starter, and me hitting the starter over and over were too much for the 200amp fuse!

FWIW my chebby truck runs at 210 or so in this heat. 230 is a little high, but it's not going to kill it. What type/temp thermostat do you have in it? How old is the radiator?

[dville_gt]

I would try bleeding the cooling system again before you write off the current radiator. It does seem odd you are killing 200amp fuses. I have a 140 breaker on mine and it has never been tripped. May want to check your wiring for issues.

ya, i thought it was odd too, the starter sounds different now, i think it might be on it's way out. lots of heat right there by the headers. drove around a lot today with the 300amp and didn't have any problems. with no check valve in the aeromotive pump sometimes you have to stay on the starter for a second to get pressure built up, that along with a heat soaked starter might just be too much.

as far as the cooling system i bled it when i put the 90* elbow in the upper, it is definitly better then the old hose, but it will still rise up to about 230 when you sit for a bit and runs around 225 when you are rolling. seems like the radiator just can't hang.

i did get some full throttle runs in today and started working on the upper VE tables, got it to about 5% rich (12.2-12.5:1 @ WOT). the lower VE tables look real good with around 1-2% rich all over the place (averaging about 14.6:1 across the board). need to get it out to the track and see what a good tune is worth in the 1/8th (when I started it was super rich down low and then all over the place up top).

[NoClassic]

I would try bleeding the cooling system again before you write off the current radiator. It does seem odd you are killing 200amp fuses. I have a 140 breaker on mine and it has never been tripped. May want to check your wiring for issues.