Originally posted by CJ
					
						
						
							
							
							
							
								
								
								
								
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Any experience with 260?
				
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 I agree annealing isn't that difficult once a good system is used or an ultra fancy machine. I've tried the primer pocket swadgers and didn't have the best luck, it worked good on a few then some would require it after the first firing. I was glad I borrowed it to try instead of buying."It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"
 
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 Be careful using the nickel plated stuff they can cause die problems when they start to flake. I only load nickel plated cases 2 times then trash them.Originally posted by CJ View PostCompetition is all about repeatability. As long as you're using the same brass, and you scale your brass/verify concentric and make sure it's all trimmed/deburred identical you'll be fine. I suppose those premier brass manufacturers would make sense if you didn't know how or want to choose your brass yourself. I personally use federal nickel cases for my loads and could never see a difference between any of the high dollar cases."It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"
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 It's getting harder and harder to find places to shoot F-class lately. I use to shoot at Ft. Wolters and Tiger Valley. Lately the only remaining ranges shooting F-class is MSA (which is a drive). I shoot unsupported comps at Tac Pro on occasion. I've got a post up on Sniper's Hide asking about any new F-class comps opening up around here, I've been lobbying for it for quite a while. There have been some new ranges popping up so I hope they do.Originally posted by dee View PostWhere are you shooting F class at been wanting to try it out."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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 I've heard that from the old codgers forever, the nickel will tumble off before it starts to flake (assuming it isn't a shitty case). At least, I've never had it flake off on the cases I use. I run polished carbide dies (ever tried to polish carbide, lol) and I've been through 13 reloads on one of my case sets and it's still going fine. Most of the time I just replace the cases after 4 reloads because it's cheap and I have tons of it. It also depends on whether you're full length or neck resizing. The reason I use nickel is just so it's easier for me to find my cases since I shoot a semi auto. If I was using a bolt gun I probably would be using brass. It's just a convenience thing.Originally posted by dee View PostBe careful using the nickel plated stuff they can cause die problems when they start to flake. I only load nickel plated cases 2 times then trash them."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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 I don't use any of the pocket swagers. I use ball bearings and a big ass hammer.Originally posted by dee View PostI agree annealing isn't that difficult once a good system is used or an ultra fancy machine. I've tried the primer pocket swadgers and didn't have the best luck, it worked good on a few then some would require it after the first firing. I was glad I borrowed it to try instead of buying."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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 I'll try and keep an eye on your post over there for a heads up. If you get something lined up let me know I'd like to try although I would have to shoot in the open classification.Originally posted by CJ View PostIt's getting harder and harder to find places to shoot F-class lately. I use to shoot at Ft. Wolters and Tiger Valley. Lately the only remaining ranges shooting F-class is MSA (which is a drive). I shoot unsupported comps at Tac Pro on occasion. I've got a post up on Sniper's Hide asking about any new F-class comps opening up around here, I've been lobbying for it for quite a while. There have been some new ranges popping up so I hope they do."It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"
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 Carbide dies may be a factor in having issues.Originally posted by CJ View PostI've heard that from the old codgers forever, the nickel will tumble off before it starts to flake (assuming it isn't a shitty case). At least, I've never had it flake off on the cases I use. I run polished carbide dies (ever tried to polish carbide, lol) and I've been through 13 reloads on one of my case sets and it's still going fine. Most of the time I just replace the cases after 4 reloads because it's cheap and I have tons of it. It also depends on whether you're full length or neck resizing. The reason I use nickel is just so it's easier for me to find my cases since I shoot a semi auto. If I was using a bolt gun I probably would be using brass. It's just a convenience thing."It's another burrito, it's a cold Lone Star in my hand!"
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 I've been considering starting my own competition for semi auto suppressed guns.Originally posted by dee View PostI'll try and keep an eye on your post over there for a heads up. If you get something lined up let me know I'd like to try although I would have to shoot in the open classification."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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 That's really what I'm interested in right now, and other formal classes do not offer any handicaps so you never see them. For me, in what I use a suppressed gun for, it would be a great class to work up real world usable loads.Originally posted by dee View PostThat would be pretty neat."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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 I hate to admit it, but I might built a long range AR10 next year. It's going to cost a damn fortune, but I think I'm ready to move on. I've played around with the idea of chambering an AR10 in .350 rem mag. That thing would be a beast.
 
 200 gr SP..........3,008 ft/s...........4,019 ft·lbf
 
  Last edited by CJ; 11-02-2012, 09:29 AM."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin Last edited by CJ; 11-02-2012, 09:29 AM."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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 Unfortunately I only have a .30 cal can, so I'd probably choose .300 win mag just to make my life easier. I haven't heard a .338 suppressed yet, but SAS does have the Vengeance .338 can.Originally posted by dee View Post338 federal would make a good suppressed AR10 round."When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic." -Benjamin Franklin
 "A democracy will continue to exist up until the time that voters discover that they can vote themselves generous gifts from the public treasury." -Alexander Fraser Tytler
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