H/c/I, intake and inject question.

[FoxBodyNick]

always degree the damn cam

[Diabolic]

If you're really running 30 pound injectors without a proper tune on ECM then you are probably washing down the cylinder walls with gas, which is bad. The fuel pressure at idle is part of the equation, but you can't adjust pulse frequency and width through a fuel pressure regulator, and that is much more important than pressure at idle. Only the computer can compensate for those parameters.

Well, I hate to have to tell you this, but those 30's that you're running, they're getting the same treatment on a dry shot of nitrous just as the 19's I was using, and any other size injector that is used with a dry shot of nitrous. Those dry kit systems work the same way regardless of the injector size. They all get hammered, just because one is capable of distributing "xx" amount of fuel doesn't mean they aren't subject to the way the nitrous system is designed to work. If you think the fuel pressure on those 30 pound injectors isn't jacked sky high when you flip that switch you're mistaken.

You say you have the knowledge to it the right way, and that you are doing it the right way, but that's subject to opinion.

Get all the facts first. I use a Moates QH, Innovate LC1 WB, and Binary Editor on all my vehicles. No it isn't the same as a dry shot because I'm not increasing the fuel pressure. I'm simply asking for more fuel and it's altering the PW to obtain that fuel at the stock fuel pressure. How can my fuel pressure jack sky high with a stock fp regulator. Fill me in. It seems to me that about 40 is as high as she goes. I see a nice 12.1 AFR on my datalogs, no diamonds on the porcelain, and my timing mark on the plugs is just a bout at the center of the curve in the electrode. I could actually add more timing. I currently run 26 degrees total on 93 pump gas with a 125 shot.

[Z06killinsbf]

if anderson reccomends dot to dot then i won't worry with degreeing the cam.

always degree a cam.

[Z06killinsbf]

I think it will perform well. 218/228 .542/542 112 LSA. Emissions shouldn't be a concern when the car has no cats and most of Anderson's cams are not emissions passing cams.

Anderson says .544/.544 w/1.7s. since he is running 1.6's it's a .512 cam. No big difference.

It should run pretty decent. I still think it needs 4.30's with the slicks.

[91CoupeMike]

Well then I'll find a way to degree it. Lol

[FoxBodyNick]

Anderson says .544/.544 w/1.7s. since he is running 1.6's it's a [.510/.511] cam. No big difference.

What anderson advertises isn't right =) The cam is in the valve events as im sure you know. The events are almost spot on with the lunati 51014.

[FoxBodyNick]

Well then I'll find a way to degree it. Lol

WTF is a matter with you. ill get you a degree wheel or Im sure someone will let you use one and you will do the right way.

[Z06killinsbf]

What anderson advertises isn't right =) The cam is in the valve events as im sure you know. The events are almost spot on with the lunati 51014.

OK, it was yours correct? I'm just going off of other keyboard bandits.

[Lone Sailor]

In a nutshell what advantages are typically found with a properly degreed cam vs a dot to dot instal?

The valve events are at stake when you don't degree the cam when installing it, and that's where your real power is put at risk. You can install a cam straight up, but you're just guessing at how the valve events will take place, or if they're even close. The only way to know for sure is to degree it each time. There have been several tests done by guys like Jay Allen and Ed Curtis, and the results were that almost cam when tested was out of phase slightly, some much worse than others. When you don't degree it, the cam and crank may be misaligned with one another, thus throwing off the entire events of timing between your valves opening and closing and you're pistons position within the cylinders and whether it's on the up stroke or down stroke. It plays a big role in performance. I know there are people that have installed cams straight up and have had no issues, but they also aren't 100% that they've maximized their timing events since they didn't degree the cam. Will the car run without degreeing the cam? Sure. Do some of them run really well? Sure. Do some fall flat on their face? Definitely. Basically it depends on whether or not you're willing to chance it.

[FoxBodyNick]

OK, it was yours correct? I'm just going off of other keyboard bandits.

correct. Im just being a turd lol

Nobody really has this cam and Anderson doesn't sell it anymore so i wanted to see how it would perform. but I was actually going to supercharge my car in the long run as it is a Boost cam. But like you said I think Mike's car is going to run damn good and Im not just saying that because he is using my heads and cam =)

[91CoupeMike]

correct. Im just being a turd lol

Nobody really has this cam and Anderson doesn't sell it anymore so i wanted to see how it would perform. but I was actually going to supercharge my car in the long run as it is a Boost cam. But like you said I think Mike's car is going to run damn good and Im not just saying that because he is using my heads and cam =)

I think it should run pretty good. I just hope it runs good enough to put my new Helmet to use. Lol

[Lone Sailor]

Get all the facts first. I use a Moates QH, Innovate LC1 WB, and Binary Editor on all my vehicles. No it isn't the same as a dry shot because I'm not increasing the fuel pressure. I'm simply asking for more fuel and it's altering the PW to obtain that fuel at the stock fuel pressure. How can my fuel pressure jack sky high with a stock fp regulator. Fill me in. It seems to me that about 40 is as high as she goes. I see a nice 12.1 AFR on my datalogs, no diamonds on the porcelain, and my timing mark on the plugs is just a bout at the center of the curve in the electrode. I could actually add more timing. I currently run 26 degrees total on 93 pump gas with a 125 shot.

Both increased fuel pressure and increased pulse width, or time that the fuel injectors are open, are achieved on a dry nitrous kit. EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel and boost, or air pressure, and by placing 1 lb of boost on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure will be raised by 1 PSI. Then you have the bleed off tee that is incorporated into the mix. The bleed off tee basically serves no other function than to control the amount of pressure being placed on the fuel pressure regulator. A larger jet will yield more bleed off, and thereby less fuel pressure, while a smaller jet would create less bleed off, more pressure on the fuel regulator and ultimately more fuel. This makes the fuel or nitrous tee side of the jetting exactly opposite of a normal wet nitrous kit. Bigger jets supply less fuel while smaller jet sizes supply more fuel.

[Z06killinsbf]

I think it should run pretty good. I just hope it runs good enough to put my new Helmet to use. Lol

Crank up the compression, add some stout gears and a little "go juice" and that wont be a problem.

[91CoupeMike]

Crank up the compression, add some stout gears and a little "go juice" and that wont be a problem.

You think I will look silly running high 7s with a simspon diamondback? Lol

[Diabolic]

Both increased fuel pressure and increased pulse width, or time that the fuel injectors are open, are achieved on a dry nitrous kit. EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel and boost, or air pressure, and by placing 1 lb of boost on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure will be raised by 1 PSI. Then you have the bleed off tee that is incorporated into the mix. The bleed off tee basically serves no other function than to control the amount of pressure being placed on the fuel pressure regulator. A larger jet will yield more bleed off, and thereby less fuel pressure, while a smaller jet would create less bleed off, more pressure on the fuel regulator and ultimately more fuel. This makes the fuel or nitrous tee side of the jetting exactly opposite of a normal wet nitrous kit. Bigger jets supply less fuel while smaller jet sizes supply more fuel.

I know how they work. I don't increase the fuel pressure period. I have a nitrous solenoid and d that's it. No t's, no vacume lines, nada. Just 40psi of fuel pressure at wot. The extra fuel is added by commanding more fuel via the wot multiplier or in the base fuel table. Fuel pressure stays at 40 with 0" of vacume at wot.