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1990 Coupe - 'budget' turbo kit

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  • Z06killinsbf
    replied
    Man, nice numbers!!

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  • slowbrick2
    replied
    looks great. jealous as ever.

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  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Darren M View Post
    If you need some "fat ass" ballast the next time you tune it let me know. I'm happy to help in the traction area. :P
    As I understand it "rolling into the gas" means quite an untruthful number on the result. What do you think the numbers should read?
    In something like this, it's all you can do. IMHO, the only thing not accurate on the numbers on this particular dyno is where the peak torque/HP actually happens, not necessarily the peak itself.

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  • Darren M
    replied
    Originally posted by turbostang View Post
    The last 'problem' was to keep it from spinning the tires on the rollers. The only way I could get it to do that was to roll into the gas for what seemed like an eternity. If you watch the carb linkage in the video - you'll see what I mean. Long story short,
    If you need some "fat ass" ballast the next time you tune it let me know. I'm happy to help in the traction area. :P
    As I understand it "rolling into the gas" means quite an untruthful number on the result. What do you think the numbers should read?

    Leave a comment:


  • Big Thumper
    replied
    Nice results. With that same turbo mine did 880 at 24.

    Text me your number. I lost all my contacts

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  • Chas_svo
    replied
    Noice!

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  • turbostang
    replied
    Ok, major update time. I couldn't leave it alone knowing I was so close on the tune, so I called Daniel at Simple Quick to schedule some more dyno time. The first dyno session had a couple of problems - one bieng what appeared to be a minor oil leak, the other bieng a much more serious problem - leaning out at an instant, at somewhere near 7,000RPM.

    There were four definitive problems in the fuel delivery

    1) The diaphragm on the billet boost referenced power valves was not fastened tight enough to the valve itself.. it leaked fuel to the back of the power valve (and out the external vent for the BRPV).
    2) The power valve gasket itself was apparently leaking as well.
    3) The primary powervalve's valve was not seating 100%
    4) The power valve restrictor channel was simply too small....

    All of that was fixed first, along with the oil leak - bad fitting install by yours truly.

    The base timing on the crank trigger was set at 30* instead of the 40* that I normally tune from. (this engine was ran N/A for about 5 miles, so it was set at a 'normal' number). This meant that there was a 10* discrepency in the total timing at full boost. I was actually running 10* less than I thought. Between the corrected timing and the BRPV fix - it picked up about 40HP through the curve.

    All in all, todays dyno session was 100% successfull - but I'm still going to work on the powervalve arrangement, I want some more fuel in it without increasing main jet sizing (right now running 74/74). The pvrc's are in the .100 range.

    (most of that stuff won't make sense who's not pretty familiar with the innards of a Holley, but you get the idea)

    The last 'problem' was to keep it from spinning the tires on the rollers. The only way I could get it to do that was to roll into the gas for what seemed like an eternity. If you watch the carb linkage in the video - you'll see what I mean. Long story short, it made right at 780ish on the spring and turned up it made 922RWHP. I had a goal of 950, but this is close enough for now. This was on 16.5* timing @ 26psi. This turbo is spent now.

    Now, it's time for the rest of the build - the cage, TTSFC's and wiring.

    Enjoy.



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  • KBScobravert
    replied
    uh-hum...I think you owe us an update with today's progress.

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  • Lason
    replied
    Sweet man! Im digging the budget aspect. I may start picking up parts off Ebay for any projects down the road.

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  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Lason View Post
    What are you doing for a boost controller? Also are you using ebay knock offs for W/G's and BOV's?
    The boost controller, right now - is a shop air regulator hooked to an air hose.

    The gate is a 60MM knockoff, the BOV is the real thing - Tial.

    More pics later today..

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  • Lason
    replied
    What are you doing for a boost controller? Also are you using ebay knock offs for W/G's and BOV's?

    Leave a comment:


  • turbostang
    replied
    Originally posted by Drs2288 View Post
    Bad ass bro! If you don't mind me asking what did this cost you?
    I honestly don't have a solid answer for that. I suspect that there's something like 1500$ or so in parts, outside of the turbo. Maaaaaybe a little less. That price will go up some when I get exhaust for it, to at least get it back to the rear end.


    It's budget because of the flipped shorties, hand made Vbands, and some of the tubing is not as 'quality' as I'd like to use - they get 'football' shaped in the bend areas. Most of which you'd never see unless I told you where the problem areas were.

    It's going back on the rollers today to see if I can get the AFR back like it should be, and fix that damn oil drain leak.

    Leave a comment:


  • kidcapri
    replied
    Originally posted by robert View Post
    Sounds healthy,
    Which Dyno you use?
    All of Brooks' built and or tuned cars spin the rollers on Daniel's dyno at Simple Quick.

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  • robert
    replied
    Sounds healthy,
    Which Dyno you use?

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  • DriveWayBuilt
    replied
    Originally posted by Damnittsteve View Post
    Its his ballla on a budget kit
    Looks like that to me! Cheapest turbo kit I've seen is 3500, pony down performance has some nice ass kits too

    Leave a comment:

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