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1990 Coupe - 'budget' turbo kit
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In something like this, it's all you can do. IMHO, the only thing not accurate on the numbers on this particular dyno is where the peak torque/HP actually happens, not necessarily the peak itself.Originally posted by Darren M View PostIf you need some "fat ass" ballast the next time you tune it let me know. I'm happy to help in the traction area. :P
As I understand it "rolling into the gas" means quite an untruthful number on the result. What do you think the numbers should read?
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If you need some "fat ass" ballast the next time you tune it let me know. I'm happy to help in the traction area. :POriginally posted by turbostang View PostThe last 'problem' was to keep it from spinning the tires on the rollers. The only way I could get it to do that was to roll into the gas for what seemed like an eternity. If you watch the carb linkage in the video - you'll see what I mean. Long story short,
As I understand it "rolling into the gas" means quite an untruthful number on the result. What do you think the numbers should read?
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Nice results. With that same turbo mine did 880 at 24.
Text me your number. I lost all my contacts
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Ok, major update time. I couldn't leave it alone knowing I was so close on the tune, so I called Daniel at Simple Quick to schedule some more dyno time. The first dyno session had a couple of problems - one bieng what appeared to be a minor oil leak, the other bieng a much more serious problem - leaning out at an instant, at somewhere near 7,000RPM.
There were four definitive problems in the fuel delivery
1) The diaphragm on the billet boost referenced power valves was not fastened tight enough to the valve itself.. it leaked fuel to the back of the power valve (and out the external vent for the BRPV).
2) The power valve gasket itself was apparently leaking as well.
3) The primary powervalve's valve was not seating 100%
4) The power valve restrictor channel was simply too small....
All of that was fixed first, along with the oil leak - bad fitting install by yours truly.
The base timing on the crank trigger was set at 30* instead of the 40* that I normally tune from. (this engine was ran N/A for about 5 miles, so it was set at a 'normal' number). This meant that there was a 10* discrepency in the total timing at full boost. I was actually running 10* less than I thought. Between the corrected timing and the BRPV fix - it picked up about 40HP through the curve.
All in all, todays dyno session was 100% successfull - but I'm still going to work on the powervalve arrangement, I want some more fuel in it without increasing main jet sizing (right now running 74/74). The pvrc's are in the .100 range.
(most of that stuff won't make sense who's not pretty familiar with the innards of a Holley, but you get the idea)
The last 'problem' was to keep it from spinning the tires on the rollers. The only way I could get it to do that was to roll into the gas for what seemed like an eternity. If you watch the carb linkage in the video - you'll see what I mean. Long story short, it made right at 780ish on the spring and turned up it made 922RWHP. I had a goal of 950, but this is close enough for now. This was on 16.5* timing @ 26psi. This turbo is spent now.
Now, it's time for the rest of the build - the cage, TTSFC's and wiring.
Enjoy.
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Sweet man! Im digging the budget aspect. I may start picking up parts off Ebay for any projects down the road.
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The boost controller, right now - is a shop air regulator hooked to an air hose.Originally posted by Lason View PostWhat are you doing for a boost controller? Also are you using ebay knock offs for W/G's and BOV's?
The gate is a 60MM knockoff, the BOV is the real thing - Tial.
More pics later today..
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What are you doing for a boost controller? Also are you using ebay knock offs for W/G's and BOV's?
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I honestly don't have a solid answer for that. I suspect that there's something like 1500$ or so in parts, outside of the turbo. Maaaaaybe a little less. That price will go up some when I get exhaust for it, to at least get it back to the rear end.Originally posted by Drs2288 View PostBad ass bro! If you don't mind me asking what did this cost you?
It's budget because of the flipped shorties, hand made Vbands, and some of the tubing is not as 'quality' as I'd like to use - they get 'football' shaped in the bend areas. Most of which you'd never see unless I told you where the problem areas were.
It's going back on the rollers today to see if I can get the AFR back like it should be, and fix that damn oil drain leak.
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Looks like that to me! Cheapest turbo kit I've seen is 3500, pony down performance has some nice ass kits tooOriginally posted by Damnittsteve View PostIts his ballla on a budget kit
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