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  • Gasser64
    replied
    Originally posted by kdventura73 View Post
    Have you tried starting it in neutral? Trans range switch could be bad. If that doesn't work try jumping the relay to see if your problem is on the starter side, or the start signal side
    Haven't tried that. I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I was under the impression that some cars required you to have it in park, before they'd let you start the engine. Found the fuse box diagram, finally wised up and checked ebay. Someone selling one posted a pic of the lid upside down so I could see the diagram lol. The fuse that blew was the "ENG MGT".



    I pulled out the "Ignition Relay" and "Starter Relay" from this fuse box, to test them. Both make the clicking noise.




    Tested the Starter Relay, and the Ignition relay, listening for the click, and then checking the ohms once they were hooked up to power. Both were good.

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  • Tremor14
    replied
    I just wanna know how he got the head on, cams degreed, all the other shit bolted back up, with no pics or questions. But now can't figure out the starter. I didn't read the whole story because i know it is bullshit to begin with, but I want the rest of you to figure out how a "mid-level" mechanic does all that in an 18 hour period with 2 jackstands and a voltmeter.

    just for clarification justin, you're a fucking idiot.

    Leave a comment:


  • kdventura73
    replied
    Originally posted by Gasser64 View Post
    Finally got this thing all back together. And of course, a problem arises. Got a good battery, but the engine won't even try to start. So I do the standard screw driver test on the starter, where you bridge the two bolts. The starter spins, but doesn't seem to "kick out" to engage the flywheel.

    So I took it to autozone, and then oriellys. Had it tested at both places. They both said it was good, and that it kicked out for them. So what would cause a good starter, to not even try to work at all?

    I followed all the wires, and the grounds, and everything is hooked up. There isn't any visible reason that the starter shouldn't work. So I wanted to ask you guys, if you've ever dealt with Nissan's immobilizer. I believe its called 'NVIS' or something. With all this work being done to the car, could it have been tripped? And what methods do you take, to disable it? I tried the method they put in the manual, and that doesn't seem to have any effect. Not real sure what's going on here.
    Have you tried starting it in neutral? Trans range switch could be bad. if that doesn't work try jumping the relay to see if your problem is on the starter side or the start signal side

    Leave a comment:


  • Gasser64
    replied
    Yeah I've spent about 30 minutes looking through that. Enough to make my eyes water. For some reason its got all manner of other shit mixed in there. May not matter anyway. Thanks for all the help through this laser

    Leave a comment:


  • LaserSVT
    replied
    Search the world's information, including webpages, images, videos and more. Google has many special features to help you find exactly what you're looking for.

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  • Gasser64
    replied
    Originally posted by Tremor14 View Post
    You can't call yourself a roofer if you can't do the work. You are a greasy as door to door cold calling sales rep.
    Was, and even when I was, it wasn't most of the time. Not really enough of those high end metal roofs for it to be going on constantly. And I have done the work. Hell no I didn't want to, but I have. So wrong, wrong, and wrong. Triple wrong, in standard shaniqua fashion. And we need a urinal installed! You got this bruh?

    Originally posted by JC316 View Post
    Chiltons won't show. It has to be in the owners manual somewhere, I've yet to see one that doesn't have fuse info.
    I'll take another look through it... but I didn't see it the first time. The nissan fanboys said the manuals of some cars won't have it, if its in the fuse box lid.

    Leave a comment:


  • 4king
    replied
    District manager called today to say that our delivery truck was due for an oil change. 4 months and it racked up 14,000 miles. He asked why we've gone so long and I told him we used the high mileage stuff that lasts 75,000 miles, he was not amused.

    Leave a comment:


  • JC316
    replied
    Originally posted by Gasser64 View Post

    Maybe I should go buy the chilton's manual, and that might have the fuse diagrams inside? It does seem odd to me that a fuse would immediately get blown, in a slot where there wasn't any fuse. Can't tell what its for, cause the plastic diagram label text has melted.
    Chiltons won't show. It has to be in the owners manual somewhere, I've yet to see one that doesn't have fuse info.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tremor14
    replied
    You can't call yourself a roofer if you can't do the work. You are a greasy as door to door cold calling sales rep.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gasser64
    replied
    Originally posted by LaserSVT View Post
    So getting back on track with the thread. .. ...
    Anyone here that has worked at a shop knows you have people come in all the time to sell you stuff. It gets easy whos selling hot stuff and whos just trying to make a buck.
    Dude comes in that stops by from time to time trying to sell useless stuff like broken impact guns or rusted chains and used rotors. Well today he pulls in and asks if we like soda. Yeah, kinda. Drink mostly water and Gatorade but the occasional soda is tasty. Says he has cases of 20oz bottles, Dr Pepper and Coke. Only wants .10 a bottle. Shit, I will take them all! Go to the truck and see they are dirty as hell and the color is off. I look at a bottle and see they all expired 3 and a half years ago! LOL Dude really tried to insist they were still good and wanted me to try one. Yeah, no. Then tells me just because HEB throws out steak after its sell by date don't mean it ain't good and he picks it out of the dumpster all...

    Sounds like you need a few no solicitation signs. If they do it anyway, the cops can be called and they'll get a ticket. I know this as a roofer. I never got one, cause I always payed attention to the sign. Had a co-worker get one though. Anyway I wanted to run this post by you one more time just in case you may have missed it:



    Originally posted by Gasser64 View Post
    Well I checked all the fuses under the dash, and most of the fuses under the hood. But dammit if there aren't 3 missing, and I can't read the label. Its just a clear plastic label that they put under the lid of the fuse box. But over the years, it seems to have... melted? The lines and words have all run together, and can't be read. And it just so happens to be, right where the 3 fuses are missing. Of course. And of course they didn't bother to put a fuse diagram in the manual. Looked on google and I did find the one under the dash, but the fuse box diagram for under the hood, evades me. Tried this, and it doesn't seem to be on there. Unless I'm blind.



    So I just popped some fuses in there, and tried to start the car. Didn't work. But there was one of the new fuses, that got blown. Hmm...

    Maybe I should go buy the chilton's manual, and that might have the fuse diagrams inside? It does seem odd to me that a fuse would immediately get blown, in a slot where there wasn't any fuse. Can't tell what its for, cause the plastic diagram label text has melted.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cooter
    replied
    yes, but I don't have a diesel powered one

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  • ceyko
    replied
    Ignorance sucks....the problem is when you try to explain these things and they refuse to learn.

    Would just a maintainer/charger do the same thing for programming purposes?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cooter
    replied
    Originally posted by 4king View Post
    Back to the altima, take the battery to get tested first. Sometimes they can still throw 12v but internal fault can cause them to throw little to no amperage. You wouldn't be suprised how many Internet mechanics come in telling me their battery is good because it is 12v so they want a new alternator and for me to charge their now 5 year old battery they have had to jump start ever day for the last week
    the first time you program a 6.7 Dodge, it takes about 30 minutes... and Cummins ECM's are notoriously shitty... and Dodge owners are notoriously cheap.

    So I ALWAYS hook my truck with jumper cables to a Dodge the first time I program it.

    My buddy lost an ECM on a 2012 and was scrambling to get a replacement. Customer was blaming him, etc. Last time it happened to me, I just ate the fucking PCM even though the customer was cool and offered me more money. He had had one fail on his previous dodge and wasn't blaming me.

    I've told my buddy countless times to have another truck hooked up when he's doing this shit. His answer "the batteries showed 13v"

    So that automatically means they're going to maintain good clean voltage for 30 minutes? If a guy won't buy new hood shocks for $30, you think he's going to buy quality batteries or replace battery cables when they look suspect?

    Leave a comment:


  • orphan Shelby
    replied
    Originally posted by Tremor14 View Post
    Anyone deal with a Mini Cooper S?? I kinda had one fall in my lap, and need to figure out where to start on rebuilding the front end. damn thing sounds like a roller coaster.
    Get the ft wheels off the ground, put it in gear with trac control off. If the bearings are that bad, you will feel it in the struts, springs or knuckles.

    Leave a comment:


  • JC316
    replied
    Originally posted by dsrtuckteezy View Post
    ill buy you a beer or icecream cone if you need, but quit digging through the trash
    I made a lot of money out of the garbage. Back before dumpster diving was a big deal, you could find perfectly good stuff, store returns and what not. Appliances, food, tools, computers, etc.

    Leave a comment:

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