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H/c/I, intake and inject question.
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heads were straight off an exploder, no port work or decking, dunno what springs, stock CR give or take vs stock heads. it was a full weight 95 GT with suspension work, not a whored out fox coupe... dude's name is BJ, used to post as Beej.Originally posted by Diabolic View PostI'm not saying it isn't possible. What was his compression ratio? Were the heads ported? What sort of valve job? What springs? Cam installed retarded? Lots of variables involved. Weight effects the et as well
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I'm not saying it isn't possible. What was his compression ratio? Were the heads ported? What sort of valve job? What springs? Cam installed retarded? Lots of variables involved. Weight effects the et as well
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Friend on here had that same cam, GT40P heads, Trick Flow Street Heat intake and made 310 rw...Originally posted by Diabolic View Post275 only because the camshaft is a tad small, and the compression is below 10:1. You could actually see more. Small cubes need RPM to make bigger numbers. More cubes need less RPM.
7.9@87mph with your good driving and decent traction. 1.7ish 60' time
with 4.30s he was running well into the 7s.
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more importantly they flow decent at low lift and have good port velocity. They continue to flow well at even .600" around 245-250 even though you wont be touching that lol. With a good port job from Fox Lake or somebody experienced they can flow around 280/215 which is great.
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Only if you put in a window net and no cage.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostYou think I will look silly running high 7s with a simspon diamondback? Lol
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I know how they work. I don't increase the fuel pressure period. I have a nitrous solenoid and d that's it. No t's, no vacume lines, nada. Just 40psi of fuel pressure at wot. The extra fuel is added by commanding more fuel via the wot multiplier or in the base fuel table. Fuel pressure stays at 40 with 0" of vacume at wot.Originally posted by Lone Sailor View PostBoth increased fuel pressure and increased pulse width, or time that the fuel injectors are open, are achieved on a dry nitrous kit. EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel and boost, or air pressure, and by placing 1 lb of boost on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure will be raised by 1 PSI. Then you have the bleed off tee that is incorporated into the mix. The bleed off tee basically serves no other function than to control the amount of pressure being placed on the fuel pressure regulator. A larger jet will yield more bleed off, and thereby less fuel pressure, while a smaller jet would create less bleed off, more pressure on the fuel regulator and ultimately more fuel. This makes the fuel or nitrous tee side of the jetting exactly opposite of a normal wet nitrous kit. Bigger jets supply less fuel while smaller jet sizes supply more fuel.
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You think I will look silly running high 7s with a simspon diamondback? LolOriginally posted by Z06killinsbf View PostCrank up the compression, add some stout gears and a little "go juice" and that wont be a problem.
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Crank up the compression, add some stout gears and a little "go juice" and that wont be a problem.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostI think it should run pretty good. I just hope it runs good enough to put my new Helmet to use. Lol
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Originally posted by Diabolic View PostGet all the facts first. I use a Moates QH, Innovate LC1 WB, and Binary Editor on all my vehicles. No it isn't the same as a dry shot because I'm not increasing the fuel pressure. I'm simply asking for more fuel and it's altering the PW to obtain that fuel at the stock fuel pressure. How can my fuel pressure jack sky high with a stock fp regulator. Fill me in. It seems to me that about 40 is as high as she goes. I see a nice 12.1 AFR on my datalogs, no diamonds on the porcelain, and my timing mark on the plugs is just a bout at the center of the curve in the electrode. I could actually add more timing. I currently run 26 degrees total on 93 pump gas with a 125 shot.
Both increased fuel pressure and increased pulse width, or time that the fuel injectors are open, are achieved on a dry nitrous kit. EFI fuel pressure regulators work on a 1:1 ratio with fuel and boost, or air pressure, and by placing 1 lb of boost on the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure will be raised by 1 PSI. Then you have the bleed off tee that is incorporated into the mix. The bleed off tee basically serves no other function than to control the amount of pressure being placed on the fuel pressure regulator. A larger jet will yield more bleed off, and thereby less fuel pressure, while a smaller jet would create less bleed off, more pressure on the fuel regulator and ultimately more fuel. This makes the fuel or nitrous tee side of the jetting exactly opposite of a normal wet nitrous kit. Bigger jets supply less fuel while smaller jet sizes supply more fuel.
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I think it should run pretty good. I just hope it runs good enough to put my new Helmet to use. LolOriginally posted by FoxBodyNick View Postcorrect. Im just being a turd lol
Nobody really has this cam and Anderson doesn't sell it anymore so i wanted to see how it would perform. but I was actually going to supercharge my car in the long run as it is a Boost cam. But like you said I think Mike's car is going to run damn good and Im not just saying that because he is using my heads and cam =)
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correct. Im just being a turd lolOriginally posted by Z06killinsbf View PostOK, it was yours correct? I'm just going off of other keyboard bandits.
Nobody really has this cam and Anderson doesn't sell it anymore so i wanted to see how it would perform. but I was actually going to supercharge my car in the long run as it is a Boost cam. But like you said I think Mike's car is going to run damn good and Im not just saying that because he is using my heads and cam =)
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The valve events are at stake when you don't degree the cam when installing it, and that's where your real power is put at risk. You can install a cam straight up, but you're just guessing at how the valve events will take place, or if they're even close. The only way to know for sure is to degree it each time. There have been several tests done by guys like Jay Allen and Ed Curtis, and the results were that almost cam when tested was out of phase slightly, some much worse than others. When you don't degree it, the cam and crank may be misaligned with one another, thus throwing off the entire events of timing between your valves opening and closing and you're pistons position within the cylinders and whether it's on the up stroke or down stroke. It plays a big role in performance. I know there are people that have installed cams straight up and have had no issues, but they also aren't 100% that they've maximized their timing events since they didn't degree the cam. Will the car run without degreeing the cam? Sure. Do some of them run really well? Sure. Do some fall flat on their face? Definitely. Basically it depends on whether or not you're willing to chance it.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostIn a nutshell what advantages are typically found with a properly degreed cam vs a dot to dot instal?
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