Originally posted by FoxBodyNick
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H/c/I, intake and inject question.
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WTF is a matter with you. ill get you a degree wheel or Im sure someone will let you use one and you will do the right way.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostWell then I'll find a way to degree it. Lol
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What anderson advertises isn't right =) The cam is in the valve events as im sure you know. The events are almost spot on with the lunati 51014.Originally posted by Z06killinsbf View PostAnderson says .544/.544 w/1.7s. since he is running 1.6's it's a [.510/.511] cam. No big difference.
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Anderson says .544/.544 w/1.7s. since he is running 1.6's it's a .512 cam. No big difference.Originally posted by FoxBodyNick View PostI think it will perform well. 218/228 .542/542 112 LSA. Emissions shouldn't be a concern when the car has no cats and most of Anderson's cams are not emissions passing cams.
It should run pretty decent. I still think it needs 4.30's with the slicks.
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always degree a cam.Originally posted by 91coupemike View Postif anderson reccomends dot to dot then i won't worry with degreeing the cam.
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Originally posted by Lone Sailor View PostIf you're really running 30 pound injectors without a proper tune on ECM then you are probably washing down the cylinder walls with gas, which is bad. The fuel pressure at idle is part of the equation, but you can't adjust pulse frequency and width through a fuel pressure regulator, and that is much more important than pressure at idle. Only the computer can compensate for those parameters.
Well, I hate to have to tell you this, but those 30's that you're running, they're getting the same treatment on a dry shot of nitrous just as the 19's I was using, and any other size injector that is used with a dry shot of nitrous. Those dry kit systems work the same way regardless of the injector size. They all get hammered, just because one is capable of distributing "xx" amount of fuel doesn't mean they aren't subject to the way the nitrous system is designed to work. If you think the fuel pressure on those 30 pound injectors isn't jacked sky high when you flip that switch you're mistaken.
You say you have the knowledge to it the right way, and that you are doing it the right way, but that's subject to opinion.
Get all the facts first. I use a Moates QH, Innovate LC1 WB, and Binary Editor on all my vehicles. No it isn't the same as a dry shot because I'm not increasing the fuel pressure. I'm simply asking for more fuel and it's altering the PW to obtain that fuel at the stock fuel pressure. How can my fuel pressure jack sky high with a stock fp regulator. Fill me in. It seems to me that about 40 is as high as she goes. I see a nice 12.1 AFR on my datalogs, no diamonds on the porcelain, and my timing mark on the plugs is just a bout at the center of the curve in the electrode. I could actually add more timing. I currently run 26 degrees total on 93 pump gas with a 125 shot.
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If Anderson reccomends dot to dot then I won't worry with degreeing the cam.Originally posted by FoxBodyNick View PostMike you are going to degree the cam to make sure specs are all on point when you install it even though i have the cam card for you degreed and measured at every point of the lobes. This cam will be installed dot to dot. they grind advance in the cam
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Mike you are going to degree the cam to make sure specs are all on point when you install it even though i have the cam card for you degreed and measured at every point of the lobes. This cam will be installed dot to dot. they grind advance in the cam
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3.73 with 2.95 1st gear.Originally posted by Lone Sailor View PostPersonally I wouldn't get into the slicks unless you have a really steep rear gear with that combination. You're going to bog like crazy out of the hole with slicks on. I don't think you'll be making enough power to bother with them, but that is just my opinion.
That's why I want a smaller slick, so it will have a higher tendancy to slip a little.
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In a nutshell what advantages are typically found with a properly degreed cam vs a dot to dot instal?
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Personally I wouldn't get into the slicks unless you have a really steep rear gear with that combination. You're going to bog like crazy out of the hole with slicks on. I don't think you'll be making enough power to bother with them, but that is just my opinion.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostOr drag radials, I'm still on the hunt for some 26x9 or similar. Slicks work and I dont mind swapping tires at the track.
I live 5-7 miles from northstar so the hike isn't but a skip.
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Without the proper tools, you can't degree it, unless you just get lucky.Originally posted by 91CoupeMike View PostThey flow really close to an afr 165.
The cam is the bottleneck so to say, I just want to see how it runs with it. If I feel like I can get another 15-20rwhp from another cam, then I'll do it later on.
I was wanting to degree the cam, but am clueless on where to start on getting it correct.
Edelbrock is the most respected name in performance! Since 1938, Edelbrock has manufactured its core products in the USA for quality and performance.
There are also some videos on youtube that can help guide you.
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Or drag radials, I'm still on the hunt for some 26x9 or similar. Slicks work and I dont mind swapping tires at the track.Originally posted by Lone Sailor View PostWhat made you decide on slicks?
I live 5-7 miles from northstar so the hike isn't but a skip.
I got a 1.82 60ft with old dry 26x10.5, stock power and suspension.
So hopefully the new set up well get out of the hole better.
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